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Tighten the two thumb screws with your hands or
with a screwdriver.
5
Hook and Loop: Take the included super strong Velcro
®
pad and stick it on the base plate.
Again, make sure the base is clean of dirt and dust.
Pre-drilled pedalboard: Fix it with a bolt and a nut you
could find at any hardware store or instead of passing the
zip tie over the pedal you can take advantage of the Smart
Track
®
enclosure and put the zip ties over the holes.
DIY woodboard: You can screw the pedal directly with
wood bolts through the enclosure side holes.
No board: If you use the pedals standalone make sure
you place the included anti-sliding rubber pad on the
baseplate.
USING OTHER PEDALBOARDS:
Trouble
Shooting
SIGNAL PASSES THROUGH IN BYPASS BUT NOT
WHEN ENGAGED:
Make sure you´ve connected the input and output jacks
correctly.
PEDAL DOES NOT WORK WITH THE POWER SUPPLY:
Take a look at your power supply output voltage and
polarity. Make sure it’s 9V DC negative tip with a minimum
output of 100 mA.
PEDAL WON’T ENGAGE WITH BOTH THE POWER
SUPPLY AND BATTERY:
Check there’s a plug inserted into the Input Jack.
PEDAL SOUNDS DISTORTED AT REALLY LOW
SETTINGS:
- If you’re running on batteries replace it with a new one or
check the voltage with a multimeter.
- The Dr. Robert is a really dynamic pedal the same way the
original amp is. Different types of guitars and pickups will
make it saturate in different regions of the knobs. That is a
totally correct response from the unit.
- Make sure there’s not any pedal before the Dr. Robert
increasing too much the guitar’s signal output, like
boosters, preamps compressors and other overdrive
pedals.
THE LEDS ARE BLINKING:
If you’re powering your Dr. Robert with a battery replace it
with a fresh one. See page 7 for more info.