19
Encore
®
1450CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove
30003845
A stove is part of a system which includes the chim-
ney, the operator, the fuel and the home. Each part of
the system affects how well the stove operates. When
there is a good match between all the parts, the system
works well.
Wood stove or insert operation depends on natural
(unforced) draft. Natural draft occurs when the smoke
is hotter (and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air
at the top of the chimney. The larger the temperature
difference, the stronger the draft. As the smoke rises
from the chimney it provides suction or ‘draw’ that pulls
air into the stove for combustion. A slow, lazy fire with
the stove’s air inlets fully open indicates a weak draft.
A brisk fire, supported only by air entering the stove
through the normal inlets, indicates a good draft. The
stove’s air inlets are passive; they regulate how much
air can enter the stove, but depend entirely on the draft
of the chimney.
Depending on the features of your installation - (i.e.
metal or masonry chimney installed, inside or outside
the house, matched to the stove’s outlet or oversized) -
your system may warm up quickly or it may take a while
to warm up and operate well. With an ‘airtight’ stove or
insert, one which restricts the amount of air getting into
the firebox, the chimney must keep the smoke warm all
the way to the outdoors. Some chimneys do this better
than others. Here is a list of features and their effects.
masonry chimney
Masonry is a traditional material for chimneys, but it
can perform poorly when it serves an ‘airtight’ stove.
Masonry is a very effective ‘heat sink’ - it absorbs a lot
of heat. It can cool the smoke enough to diminish draft.
The bigger the chimney, the longer it takes to warm up.
It’s often very difficult to warm up an outdoor masonry
chimney, especially an oversized one, and keep it warm
enough to maintain an adequate draft.
metal chimney
Most factory-made metal chimneys have a layer of
insulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps
the smoke warm. The insulation is less dense than ma-
sonry, so a steel chimney warms up more quickly than
a masonry chimney. Metal doesn’t have the good looks
of masonry, but it often performs much better.
indoor / outdoor location
Because the chimney must keep the smoke warm, it is
best to locate it inside the house. The relatively warm
house then surrounds the chimney keeping it warm.
This also means that heat from the chimney walls will
transfer to the house and not be wasted outdoors. An
indoor chimney will not lose its heat to the outdoors, so
draft management
it takes less heat from the stove to heat it up and keep
it warm.
flue Sizing
The interior size of a chimney for an ‘airtight’ stove
should match the size of the stove’s flue outlet. When a
chimney serves an airtight stove, “more” is not “better”;
in fact, it can be a disadvantage. Exhaust gases move
more slowly through larger chimneys and can lose
more heat to the chimney walls. This weakens the draft
strength. If an oversized flue is also outside the house,
the heat it absorbs gets transferred to the outdoor air
and the flue is further cooled.
It’s common for a masonry flue, especially one serving
a fireplace, to be oversized for the stove. It can take
quite a while to warm up such a flue, and the results
can be disappointing. The best solution to an oversized
flue is an insulated steel chimney liner, the same diam-
eter as the stove or insert’s flue outlet; the liner keeps
the exhaust warm, and the result is a stronger draft. An
uninsulated liner is a second choice - the liner keeps
the exhaust path restricted to its original size, but the
air around the liner must still be heated. This makes the
warm-up process take longer.
pipe & chimney layout
Every turn the exhaust must take as it travels to the
chimney top will slow it down. The ideal pipe and chim-
ney layout is straight up from the stove, and into a verti-
cal chimney. If you are starting from scratch, use this
layout if possible. If the stovepipe must turn to enter a
chimney, locate the thimble about midway between the
stove top and the ceiling. This achieves several goals:
it allows the exhaust gases to speed up before turning,
it leaves some pipe in the room for heat transfer, and
gives you long-term flexibility to install a future stove
without relocating the thimble.
There should be no more than 8 feet (.4m) of single-
wall stove pipe between the stove and a chimney; lon-
ger runs can cool the exhaust gases enough to cause
draft and creosote problems. Use double-wall stove
pipe for long runs.
Single venting
Each ‘airtight’ stove requires its own chimney. If an air-
tight stove is vented to a flue that also serves an open
fireplace, it is easier for the chimney draft to pull air
in through those channels than it is to pull air through
the stove, and performance suffers. Imagine a vacuum
cleaner with a hole in the hose to see the effect here.
In some cases the other appliance can even cause a
negative draft through the airtight, and result in a dan-
gerous draft reversal.
