TrainCat Woodchip Loader Скачать руководство пользователя страница 1

 

 

Woodchip Loader 

All Scales 

Before Starting 

 

PREPARING BRASS

 The easiest way to remove the brass parts from the sheet they are produced on, is to use rail nippers. The brass is soft and won't affect their 

future cutting ability. This will reduce or eliminate the amount of filing to smooth the edge. The next best way is with small sharp diagonal cutters that will fit into the 
small areas between the part and the sheet holding them. 

You should always use a file to remove the balance of the tie. This will ensure a perfect fit. 

 

GLUING BRASS

 Instant super glues, Cyanoacrylate, CA for short, are very prominent in model building today. They will work perfectly with brass, and they are 

instant. We recommend a thick CA glue such as “

Zap-A-Gap

” from Pacer Technology. As I have also been building R/C airplanes for over 33 years, I have many 

airplanes built entirely with CA glue and I can tell you that the wood will break before the glue joint. So it is great stuff! Besides being almost instant, thick CA glues 
will help create a small fillet and fill small gaps when applied to the inside of joints. Using a toothpick to apply the CA glue works really well for getting the glue into 
the interior areas and controlling the amount of glue used. 
 

PAINTING BRASS

 Wash your completed assembly in warm soapy water. If it is really messed up with flux etc. you can clean it with a lacquer thinner first. 

Do NOT 

bake the model if you used CA glue for construction. 

Baking will set the paint to the brass as well as allowing you to paint over parts of it without the first coat 

dissolving as you spread on the second coat. One nice thing about painting on brass, if you don't like the paint job you can use paint remover to get rid of it and start 
again without hurting the brass. 
 

Step #1 – Building The Loading Frame 

 
The main Loader Frame consists of the two Sides and Ends. Remove these from the kit frets and 
remove and tie remnants. 
 
There are two different Sides to the frame. The Side with the double X-Bracing be the side that the 
Stairs are on. Notice that both Sides have half-etched detail at the X-Bracing center Gussets. 
 
 
Position the Stair Side tabs into the Frame End slots with the half-etched detail at the X-Bracing 
center Gussets facing OUTWARD. Secure the Side to the End. 
 
Now position the other Side tabs into the same Frame End slots with the half-etched detail at the 
X-Bracing center Gussets facing INWARD. Secure the Side to the End. 
 
Secure the other Frame End to the assembly. 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
To build the Stair Support Column, remove the pieces shown from the kit fret and remove all tie 
remnants. 
 
Secure the Column Ends on the Frame with the Support Brackets going through the slots in the Ends. 
 
Do both Ends. 
 
 
 

The Stair Side of the Frame has several small notches the line-up with notches on the Stair Support Column. Remove the Spacer bars from the fret and connect the Stair 
Support Column with the Stair Side by inserting the top and bottom Spacers in the middle of the Column. Leaving the slot empty in the center/middle of the column, 
add the remaining Spacers 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Add the long spacer between the two Frame Sides. This will be the Walkway support. 
 
Now add the top Cap Strips to the Frame Sides first, then the Frame Ends and finally on the top of the Stair Column. 

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