5.2 Lighting the fire
It is important to bring the wood to a perfect combustion process quickly and safely. For this purpose
arrange the wood in the stove as described below.
Never use any spirit, petrol or similar flammable substances to light the fire, do not use any glazed paper
either as it does not burn in an optimum way and releases very toxic substances into the flue gas due to its
printing ink.
Put a newspaper or a solid igniter together with wooden chips in the combustion chamber. Stack pieces of wood
crosswise on each other. Fully open the supply of primary as well as secondary air. If the fire does not burn correctly,
you can leave the ashpan slightly open. This will also heat up the glass and prevent formation of soot coating.
As soon as the fire starts burning correctly, close the ashpan.
During the next loading of wood the burning embers will be evenly distributed in the combustion chamber and you
can add larger pieces of wood, approx. 2 - 3 pieces. If the wood burns properly, close the primary air supply. Leave
the secondary air supply open.
After a few moments, as long as the fire is burning properly, you may find it necessary to reduce the released heat.
First, control the burning speed with the wood quantity in the stove. At the same time you can reduce the supply of
secondary air.
The quantity of air for combustion and for the heat output also depends on the draught of the chimney, humidity and
size of the pieces of wood.
5.3 Environment-friendly heating
Too much wood in the combustion chamber causes overheating. This means high stressing of the stove and
brings bad flue gas values. If you supply too little wood, the stove will not achieve the required operation
temperature. Consequently, the wood does not burn cleanly, which leads to formation of soot deposits on the
glass and on the firebrick walls. Therefore, only fill the combustion chamber with wooden pieces up to one half
and add small quantities of wood more frequently. Your stove is no waste incineration plant. Only use wood or
wooden briquettes.
5.4 Loading wood
Only reload wood when there are no flames.
To reload wood, first open the air slider completely. The throttle flap must be open, then open the door slowly
and insert pieces of wood. The door must always be opened slowly to avoid possible flashback.
Then, close the door again. If the fire had been burnt out quite a lot before the reloading, leave the air slider in
the fully open position for approx. 5 to 10 minutes. After that, set it in the position for normal operation. After
heating up and new addition of wood light soot layers may deposit on firebrick parts and the glass, but they will
burn again with the rising temperature of the fire. Burning of wet wood causes formation of strong soot deposits
in the stove. Therefore, the residual humidity of wood should be higher than 20 %.
5.5 Maximum fuel quantity
The wood-burning stove is designed for the maximum quantity of 2.5 kg of split wood or 2 kg of wooden
briquettes. If the maximum fuel quantity per charge is exceeded, your wood-burning stove may get
damaged.
5.6 Ending the heating
After burning out of the fire, when wood only glows, close the combustion air slider. Thanks to this the
stove will irradiate heat for a longer time. Otherwise, the stove will cool down more quickly due to the
inflowing (cold) fresh air, i.e. the heat energy will escape through the flue.
5.7 Heating in transition periods
In transition periods (spring / autumn) smoke may accumulate in the flue under certain climatic
conditions (sun shining on the chimney). If you cannot establish sufficient draught even by means of a
release fire (=short-time production of strong heat by rapid burning of a newspaper in the flue), which
means that flue gas cannot be fully extracted, you should refrain from making a fire.
6. Cleaning and maintenance
ALL CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE WORK CAN ONLY BE CARRIED OUT WITH THE
WOOD-BURNING STOVE FULLY COOLED DOWN.
The wood-burning stoves are designed in such a way that secondary air serves at the same time as “cleaning
air” for the glass. If the stove is used properly, the glass will remain generally clean. In spite of this a fine ash
layer is often inevitable due to poor-quality fuel (wet wood) or insufficient combustion air supply.
Only clean the glass when the stove has cooled down. For this purpose use a wet paper immersed in ashes.
Within it you can remove soot from the glass. Then, wet a clean sheet of paper and do the final cleaning of the
glass. Usually also liquid cleaning agents are used for cleaning the stove window. But these may in some cases,
depending on the composition of the cleaning agent and its interaction with combustion residues (ash particles,
etc.), harm the gaskets and/or the glass-ceramics and/or the decoration colour of the fireplace viewing panel.
The producer is not responsible for damages, which are caused by attack in using of chemical agents.
Small cracks in the fire brick are inevitable due to the heat load and under the conditions of normal use they do
not have any impact on the functionality and service life. In case of bigger damage contact an authorized
retailer.
In regular intervals check the door gasket for damage and replace it if necessary.
Painted surfaces
should be cleaned with a soft, dry cloth - never use abrasive means, fat solvents, wet cloths,
etc. Please, note that in spite of the painting the stove
does not have a non-corrosive design
!!!
7. Troubleshooting
7.1 Poor draught of the stove
Is the flue too low or is the cross-section unsuitable?
Are there leaks in the flue or the stove pipe?
Is the door of another stove that is connected to the same flue open?
7.2 The stove heats poorly
Is the room too large for the stove?
Is the ashpan full?
Is the smoke exhaust clogged?
Are the combustion air controllers closed?
Is the connection of the stove to the flue sealed?
7.3 The stove irradiates too much heat
Are the combustion air controllers opened completely?
Is the stove door completely closed? Is the ashpan fully closed?
Is there too much fuel in the chamber?
