Scout Boats 221 Winyah, Руководство пользователя

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ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
13.1 Exterior Hull and Deck
Hull Cleaning-Below The Water Line
When the boat is removed from the water, clean
the outer bottom surface immediately. Algae,
grass, dirt and other marine growth is easier to
remove while the hull is still wet. Use a pres-
sure cleaner or a hard bristle brush to clean the
surface.
Bottom Painting
If the boat is to be left in saltwater for extended
periods, the hull must be protected from marine
growth by antifouling paint. Because of variations
in water temperature, marine growth, and pollu-
tion in different regions, a qualified boat yard in
your area should be consulted when deciding what
bottom paint system to apply to your hull. This
is extremely important as pollution and marine
growth can damage fiberglass hulls.
Use only standard antifouling paints and fiber -
glass wax removers and primers recommended
by the antifouling paint manufacturer when pre-
paring the hull for bottom paint. Light sanding,
just enough to scuff the gel coat or a skip sand
primer system can be used to prepare the hull
for bottom paint. The use of a coating other than
standard antifouling paint or epoxy barrier coat -
ings are not recommended and will void the hull
blister warranty.
Do not allow the hull antifouling paint to contact
the outboard motor. Most antifouling paints de-
signed for hull bottoms contain copper and can
cause severe galvanic corrosion damage to the
motor. Always leave a 1/2” barrier between the
hull bottom paint and outboard motor.
Most bottom paints require some maintenance.
Proper maintenance is especially important when
the boat is in saltwater and not used for extended
periods or after dry storage. If the hull bottom
has been painted with antifouling paint, contact
your local boat yard for the recommended main-
tenance procedures.
Anodes
Sacrificial anodes are installed on the outboard
motor, engine bracket and trim tabs. The anodes
are less noble than copper based alloys, stainless
steel and aluminum. They will deteriorate first,
protecting the more noble underwater hardware
against galvanic corrosion.
They must be monitored if the boat is to be left
in the water. Anodes should be checked monthly
and changed when they are 75% of their original
size. When replacing the anodes, make sure the
contact surfaces are clean, shiny metal and free of
paint and corrosion. Never paint over the anode.
Boats stored in saltwater will normally need to
have the anodes replaced every 6 months to
one year. Anodes requiring replacement more
frequently may indicate a stray current problem
within the boat or at the slip or marina. Anodes
that do not need to be replaced after one year may
not be providing the proper protection. Loose or
low quality anodes could be the problem. Contact
your engine dealer or Scout Customer Service for
the proper size and type of anodes to be used and
the specific installation procedure.
There are 2 anodes on Yamaha engines. There is
a large anode on the bottom of the clamp bracket
and another anode on the anti-cavitation plate,
above the propeller.
Fiberglass Gel Coat
Normal maintenance requires only washing with
mild soap and water. A stiff brush can be used
on the nonskid areas. Kerosene or commercially
prepared products will remove oil and tar which
could be a problem on trailered boats. Harsh abra-
sive and chemical cleaners are not recommended
because they can damage or dull the gel coat,
reducing its life and making it more susceptible
to stains. When the boat is used in saltwater, it
should be washed thoroughly with soap and water
after each use.
At least once a season, wash and wax all exposed
fiberglass surfaces. Use a high quality automotive
or boat wax. Follow the procedure recommended
Chapter 13: