15
Trouble Shooting
FAILURE TO START:
Try these steps in order:
1) Look at the inverter. Is the display lit up? If not, that means you don’t have power.
Check that the lathe is plugged in to a working outlet of the correct voltage and that that
the circuit breaker has not tripped.
2) Does the inverter say “STOP”? If so, check your spindle lock: it may have jiggled or
been bumped upward just enough to open the internal safety switch but not enough to
lock the spindle. Push down on the spindle lock to close the internal switch. If the
problem happens frequently, try tightening up the screw that puts tension on the
spindle lock. You’ll find it in the threaded hole directly below the spindle lock knob.
Also, look for dust or debris that might interfere with movement of the switches on the
pendant controller. Disconnect power to the lathe, and then clean the switches with
compressed air, paying extra attention to the small gap between the part of the switch
that rotates and the bezel that surrounds it. Some disassembly may be required for
especially dirty switches, like those contaminated by glue or finish.
3) Does the inverter say “FLF”? That indicates there is a GFI or GFCI somewhere on the circuit. They are not compatible
with the lathe. Time to call an electrician.
4) If the inverter is lit up and says anything other than “STOP” it will be displaying an error code. You can look in the
manual if you want to know the source. Common sources include overloading the machine when coring or taking heavy
cuts and anomalies on the line like a lightning strike or power surge. The solution is simple:
Unplug the machine until the display goes completely blank. The error code will clear and reset the inverter (
a
quick power down will not be sufficient
). If you are unable to resolve the situation, call Robust. If it still will not
run,
DO NOT
attempt to program the drive.
INTERMITTENT STOPPING
: If your lathe shuts down for no apparent reason while you are making cuts or turning out of
balance work, but you can start it right back up, your spindle lock probably needs adjusting. See above.
ALIGNMENT:
If your centers are out of line look for debris stuck to the bottom of the tailstock. A very small amount can
make a big difference. If a thorough cleaning does not re‐establish alignment, go through the settling procedure
described elsewhere in the manual. If you have bolted your lathe down, it is especially important to go through the
settling procedure beforehand to prevent twisting the lathe bed.
BANJO, TAILSTOCK OR HEADSTOCK WILL NOT SLIDE EASILY:
Clean the bottoms and apply a light coating of wax. Also
clean the cam shafts and cam sleeves and very lightly oil. Also make sure the clamp levers are vertical before you try to
move the component.
VIBRATION:
All lathes will vibrate if you have out of balance work and run the speed to fast. For systemic vibration
problems, start with the feet. All four feet should be carrying about the same weight. This is more important than having
your lathe level. Settle the lathe as described elsewhere. Also use the hard rubber pads supplied with your lathe.
Another source of vibration is loose mounting of your work. Chucks and faceplates must seat on the spindle shoulder.
Use a thin nylon washer between the spindle shoulder and the chuck or faceplate. If your chucks or faceplate won’t seat,
see the next section on spindle maintenance.
SPINDLE THREAD MAINTANCE
: Your faceplates and chucks should spin on and off freely. To do so, the threads on your
spindle, chucks and faceplates must be clean and burr‐free. Every time you put something on the spindle you should
clean the spindle threads and the accessory being mounted with compressed air and visually inspect both items for
debris. Put a drop of mineral oil (won’t stain wood) on the spindle every now and then.
MORSE TAPER MAINTENANCE
: Morse tapers need to be clean and burr‐free to work properly. If they are not, the
inserted component can spin which may damage both the internal and external tapers. The “TaperMate” Morse Taper
