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2 Channnel

“C” and “H” amps

50 Watt

Max Power Usage

200W

Pre Amp Tubes

3 each 12AX7/ECC83

3 each 12AT7

“C” Power Tubes

2EA EL34

“H” Power Tubes*

2EA 6L6

* Power Tubes should be purchased as matched sets. Use only tubes in quads that are factory-matched. Failure to use 

matched tubes can lead to tube failure and amplifier damage or abnormal operation.

Main Fuses

120V 60Hz

3A 250V

Type 20mm X 5mm

100V 50/60Hz

3A 250V

Type 20mm X 5mm

230V 60Hz

1.5A 250V

Type 20mm X 5mm

Filament Fuses

2 each 10A 250V Type 3AG/AB

B+ Fuses

1 each 1 Amp

250V Type 3AG/AB

Weight

Head

32.8 lbs (14.9kg)

1x12 Combo

62.8 lbs (28.5 kg)

Dimensions

Head

21.5” W x 10” H x 9.5” D

546mm W x 254mm H x 241mm D

1x12 Combo

24” W x 23” H x 11” D

609mm W x 584mm H x 279mm D

Tech Specs

Service Notes

Tubes

Tubes are consumables, as they have a given usable lifespan.  They are part of the heart of 

the tone, so keeping correctly operating tubes is essential.  Tubes can fail catastrophically or 

gradually, and it’s good to know what to look for if they start to go bad.  Periodically inspect 

them and look to see if anything inside the tube is glowing cherry red other than the normal 

orange glow of the filament.  This would indicate a situation where the tube is conducting 

more current than it is capable of handling and most likely about to fail.  Two other conditions 

to observe are: 1) filaments not glowing or 2) a miniature fireworks display inside the tube.  Any 

of the above conditions indicate serious problems with the tube and should be taken care of 

immediately. Tubes quite often are the cause of spurious noise in the amp.  Microphonic tubes 

will squeal or rattle with the vibrations of the cabinet.  If suspected, tap each tube lightly with 

a pencil with the amp powered up—the suspect tube will let you know.  Note that there is a 

normal metallic clinking when doing this, but a microphonic tube will be quite loud.

Instructions for Qualified Service Technician: To install the tubes, check that the power cord 

is not plugged in, then remove the back panel with a screwdriver and notice the tube sockets. 

Note that the cooling fan may need to be unplugged from the chassis. Looking from the back, 

install the Power tubes (EL34, 6L6, etc.) in the sockets.  In each case, align the center pin guide 

correctly with the socket, making sure that the pin guide key fits with the corresponding slot 

in the socket. The preamp tubes can then be placed in the smaller 9-pin sockets to the right of 

the power tubes. Please refer to the tube chart in this manual (inside, panel 4) for proper tube 

locations. Be aware of the pin alignment with these, as there is only one way they can fit. We 

utilize tube sockets that allow relative ease of tube installation, but never force tubes into the 

sockets if there becomes a problem. Also, never torque the tubes, only gently rock them from 

side to side during insertion or removal. After preamp tube installation, place the cylindrical 

spring tension preamp tube covers over the tubes.

Replacing preamp tubes will not require any adjustment, but the power tubes will need 

rebiasing to assure proper operation. After power tube replacement, initially inspect the tubes 

often to assure there are no “cherry red” components within the tube. Tubes today can have a 

wide variety of tolerances and a re-bias is highly recommended with new ones.

Fuses

There are 4 fuses installed in the amplifier. 2 of these fuses are accessible on the back panel:

the main fuse, and the B+ fuse. These are replaceable by the user. Two of these fuses are high 

voltage, and 2 internal fuses are for the lower filament voltages. In all cases, labels indicate the 

type and rating of the fuse. Replacement fuses MUST BE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING. If they 

are not you can permanently damage your amplifier. Please contact your local PRS dealer or 

the PRS accessories web site for information on ordering replacement fuses.

Instructions for Qualified Service Technician: Replacement of internal fuses requires removal

of the back panel and removal of the chassis. First, ensure the power cord is not plugged in,

then remove the back panel with a screwdriver. Loosen the 4 screws holding the chassis to the 

top of the cabinet. Check that all components are cool so that burns do not occur. Then, by 

holding onto the transformers, carefully pull the chassis out of the cabinet.

NOTE!

 Capacitors may retain an electric charge and can be dangerous even when the unit is 

off, unplugged, and has not been played for an extended period of time. USE CAUTION!!!!

Locate the fuse holders, remove them, and check for continuity. Blown fuses can indicate a

failure condition and should be treated as though a problem exists. Check the label for the

proper type and rating. After all fuses have been replaced and the amp is tested as acceptable

and safe, reinstall the chassis by working in reverse. Be sure to plug the reverb cords back into 

place.

2 Channel Guitar Amplifier 

User’s Manual

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