microcell granular processor Скачать руководство пользователя страница 1

microcell 

granular processor

user DIY build guide v1.0

For a full description of functionality, including firmware upgrades and 
calibration instructions, check the Supercell user manual at 

grayscale.info/supercell

 – most details are identical. For a delineation of 

the Superparasites firmware modes, check the 

microcell.cc

 website. For 

documentation of the individual Parasites and Kammerl functions, see 

mqtthiqs.github.io/parasites/clouds.html

 and 

kammerl.de/audio/clouds

 

and for basic functionality questions, check the original Mutable manual 
for Clouds at 

mutable-instruments.net/modules/clouds/manual/

DIY Build Guide

This is a straightforward build with just a few quirks and a lot of solder 
joints. Please review the steps below before starting your build.

1. PARTS COUNT.

 It’s always a good idea to take inventory before starting 

a build. You should have 19 jacks (with nuts), 11 pots, five tact switches 
(with caps), one LED switch, and a total of 16 LEDs (two red, four green, 
ten yellow), plus one front panel, one front panel PCB, one SMD 
subassembly, and one power cable. If anything is missing or damaged, 
please send an email to 

[email protected]

 and we’ll respond ASAP.

2. HEADERS. 

Attach the unsoldered headers to the rear PCB, then fit the 

headers to the unpopulated front PCB. This ensures good alignment 
between the two boards. Solder one pin on each end of each header, then 
separate the assembly and solder the remaining header pins. This keeps 
the SMD board from being accidentally damaged during soldering.

3. TACT SWITCHES. 

Solder the five tact switches in place. They do not 

have a specific orientation and can be installed either way.

4. JACKS. 

Fit the LEFT input and RIGHT output jacks to the PCB and 

solder all three pins of each jack. Fit the remaining jacks in place (some 
jacks have the ground pin slightly offset due to adjacent headers). Fit the 
panel to the jacks and hand-tighten a nut onto the L IN and R OUT jacks. 
This will hold the panel in place. Now solder the remaining jacks, making 
sure that they are flush against the PCB before being soldered. After all 
jacks have been soldered, remove the panel.

5. LED SWITCH. 

Fit the LED switch (labeled HOLD on the panel). Note 

that the switch has a specific orientation. On the bottom of the switch you 

will see + and – signs. The + side should be located closest to the top 

edge of the PCB. Once you ensure that the orientation is correct, solder all 
eight pins in place. The + pin is quite close to the adjacent header, take 
care not to touch the header with the soldering iron.

6.LEDS. 

Fit the LEDs to the PCB, noting the correct orientation (long leg 

goes on the + side, indicated by the PCB silkscreen) and color (which is 
also indicated on the silkscreen). All of the LEDs look identical, but they 
are bagged separately and labeled R (red), Y (yellow), and G (green) so 
take care not to mix them up. Reinstall the panel, hand-tightening the 
knurled nuts for the LEFT input, RIGHT output, and O.VCA jacks. Push 
each LED through its corresponding hole in panel, then solder one leg of 
each LED. Check your work to make sure that none of the LEDs is sitting 
too low with respect to the panel. If any of the LEDs are too low, reheat the 
solder joint (carefully) and reposition the LED. Once all the LEDs are 
properly positioned, solder the other leg on each LED. Trim the legs of 
each LED with pliers or side cutters as you work or when all LEDs have 
been soldered in place. Remove the panel when you’re finished.

7. POTENTIOMETERS.

 Fit the pots to the PCB. You may need to bend 

the support pins (the two legs on each side of the pot) slightly towards the 
body for them to fit into the PCB. The pots may also be a little sticky, this 

is normal. Install the tact switch caps now as well, because this is the last 
time you’ll need to install the panel. Push them on firmly. Once the caps 
are on, fit the panel once more and hand-tighten the LEFT IN, MIX, and 
SHAPE nuts to ensure that the panel is parallel to the PCB. Now solder the 
support pins of each pot and check your work as you go, because if a pot 
is misaligned it will rub against the panel and it will be harder to turn. Once 
all of the pots are aligned, solder the remaining three pins on each pot. 
After this, you can install the remaining nuts on each jack and tighten them 
all the way, the panel should not have to be removed again after this point.

8. STANDOFFS.

 Earlier PCBs have three holes for standoffs, located 

between the pots. Standoffs are not required and were not included with 
the DIY kits, so this detail can be ignored. The holes will not be present on 
subsequent versions of the PCB.

9. POWER UP.

 Attach the included power cable (note the -12V orientation) 

and power up the module. The VU meters will animate on startup, so you 
can check those four LEDs easily. Tap the TIME and BANK switches to 
cycle through those LEDs as well. Check the IN and OUT switches (which 
mute the inputs and outputs respectively), only the red LED in each VU 
meter will be illuminated. Test the main I/O and all of the CV inputs, along 
with the pots. If something isn’t working, check the solder joints for each 
component (and the solder joints for the board-to-board headers) and look 
for mistakes. In most cases, reflowing dodgy joints and/or adding just a 
little more solder will fix the problem.

10. CALIBRATION.

 The SMD subassembly is tested and calibrated at the 

factory, so this step is not required. Calibration will only be required if you 
update the firmware or decide to install the “Core” firmware. microcell 
ships with the “Superparasites” firmware installed by default. If you need 
to recalibrate, check the Supercell manual at 

grayscale.info/supercell

 for 

detailed instructions.

That’s it, you’re done. Now make something interesting! If you’re active on 
social media, please tag @grayscalemodular with your creations. For tech 
support, missing parts, etc send an email to 

[email protected] 

and we’ll 

respond as soon as possible.

Open Source

Thanks to Mutable Instruments for making the original Clouds hardware 
and firmware available under open-source licenses (CC BY-SA 3.0 and the 
MIT License, respectively). The CC BY-SA 3.0 license grants a broad range 
of rights related to the Supercell/microcell source files but it does not grant 
any rights to use intellectual property such as trademarks, brand names, 
and logos. Grayscale, Supercell, microcell, Mutable Instruments, and 
Clouds are trademarks of their respective owners and should not be used 
on any derivative works without permission.

Grayscale Supercell: grayscale.info/supercell
Supercell source files: github.com/grayscalemodular
Clouds manual: mutable-instruments.net/modules/clouds/manual
Clouds source files: github.com/pichenettes/eurorack
Superparasites code: github.com/patrickdowling/superparasites/
CC BY-SA 3.0: creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/us

Firmware Credits

The Supercell “Core” firmware offers the original four DSP modes from 
Clouds. This code was released by Mutable Instruments under an MIT 
License. The “Superparasites” firmware incorporates alternative Clouds 
firmware code from Matthias Puech (Parasites) and Julius Kammerl (Beat 
Repeat) which was also released under the MIT License and used with 
permission. Patrick Dowling (known for his extensive work on the 
Ornament & Crime firmware) merged these existing alternate firmware 
libraries into one consolidated firmware.

Отзывы: