Mazda Chassis Tuning, Руководство по установке

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This document is released into the public domain and may be reproduced and distributed in its entirety so long as all
credit to Jim Daniels remains. If you find this guide helpful please consider donating a small fee via the links located at
http://www.specmiata.com.
Setup Guide and Chassis Tuning Tips
(
simple version
)
By Jim Daniels
As promised the following is a walk through of how I setup my SM with a list of tuning tips I
use at the track. Many have theories, thoughts and ingrained ideas on setup and tuning.
I’m not trying to change any of that, I’m simply providing you with what I use on this type of
racecar. I hope that you use this guide as a source to further your racing program and setup
abilities. I welcome any suggestions you have, send them to me at
jim@jimdaniels.com .
This guide will be placed in the FAQ section of the www.specmiata.com web site.
Expect 6-8 hours the first time you do this yourself, sometimes longer depending on your
mechanical ability. This time estimate is AFTER you level your floor.
Tools and equipment needed to do setup at home:
• Level surface (absolutely level, use shims to achieve if needed)
• Scales, camber gauge, toe plates, string
• Normal tools and jack stands
• Maybe some 8’ sections of clear tube needed to level the workspace
Before you start, a few things need to be done to the car, a few assumptions have to be made
and a couple techniques explained.
1.) The sway bars need to be disconnected on one side (I like the left side).
2.) You need to find the center of the steering rack then lock down the column with a
pair of vice grips and a bungee cord. This would be a good time to adjust the
steering wheel adapter if it is off center from the rack’s center. I use my steering
wheel like a degree wheel to find the center. Then, I removed the hub and adjust
the splines until the “T” on my steering wheel is square.
3.) The tires need to be at “hot” pressures, 40 will do.
4.) The driver’s weight needs to be in the car at all times, I prefer a real person to sit
there the whole time. If not, try to divide up body weight for torso, legs etc…
5.) Do yourself a favor and make sure the suspension bolts, perch adjusters and
other hardware you will be adjusting are free, ready to adjust but not loose.
6.) In the rear sub-fame, driver’s side, just above the inboard lower bushing mounts
you will see some holes cut by the factory. These holes are on both sides of the
sub-frame again just up from those lower bushings. Find the two holes that are in
alignment, one for the front of the sub-frame and one for the rear. Install a 3-4” bolt,
the size of the hole, with a jam nut holding it in place. Have the bolts extent outward
(front to the front and rear to the rear). These bolts establish the centerline of the car
and will be used to square the car up in later steps (see Picture 1).