Front Panel Features
1. Power Switch
This switches on the mains power to the amp, allowing
heaters to warm-up the valves ready for use. This normally
takes approximately 30 seconds.
2. Standby Switch
This governs the high voltage supply to the valves. When
the amp is first powered-up we recommend that you wait for
30 seconds before switching this control on. This will allow
the valves time to reach their operating temperature. Once the
valves are warmed up, putting the amp ‘on standby’ (i.e.
turning this switch off) shuts the amp down but keeps the
valves at operating temperature, ready for instant use. This is
a great feature just before a show, between sets or while
you're changing guitars.
3. Low Output/High Output Switch*
This controls the output configuration of the power-stage.
When switched to the High Output setting the EL34 power
valves operate in pentode mode and will deliver a full 100
Watts. When Low Power is selected the valves are switched to
triode mode and the amp's power is halved to 50 Watts. This
allows you to drive the power valves hard at a lower overall
volume. This facility is particularly useful at small club gigs,
rehearsals and in certain recording situations (Important Note:
50 Watts of power isn't ‘half as loud’ as 100 Watts - the laws
of physics that apply here don't work that way! Typically,
switching from High Output to Low Output will result in a 3dB
drop in power).
*Important Operation Note:
When switching Output Power the Standby Switch should
always be switched off.
Tone Talk:
In addition to changing the output power of your amp, this
switch also offers some useful tonal variations. When EL34s
are driven hard* in pentode mode (High Power) the resulting
tone is big, fat and ‘in your face.’ When pushed hard
*
in
triode mode (Low Power) however, their tone becomes
somewhat warmer. For this reason many blues players will
opt for the latter setting while hard rockers with sheer brutality
in mind tend to prefer pentode!
*Note:
When an output valve like an EL34 is driven hard (i.e.: the
amp is cranked!) it adds desirable compression and harmonic
distortion, making the tone big, fat and warm. That’s why an
all-valve amp like this one sounds at its very best when the
Output Master Volume is turned up quite high.
4. Presence
This affects the very high frequencies in your sound.
Turning this control up makes your tone sharper and more
cutting.
5. Bass
This controls the bottom frequencies of your sound. Turning
it up adds more low end definition and punch to your guitar.
6. Middle
The ‘mids’ are the frequencies that have the most dramatic
effect on your tone. Increasing them adds fatness and body.
Many exponents of ‘thrash’ and ‘grunge’ get their vicious
rhythm tone by turning the Middle control ‘off’ (i.e. fully
anticlockwise) or nearly ‘off.’ Doing this literally ‘scoops’ out
the ‘mids’ - hence the term ‘scooped tone.’
7. Treble
This affects the high frequencies and turning this control up
adds brightness to your sound.
8. Output Master/Pull Channel
This push/pull knob has two functions: it controls the
overall (i.e. Output) volume of the amp and also acts as a front
panel switch between your Rhythm and Lead settings. As
stated in the introduction to this section, this feature
effectively makes this a two channel amp.
When this switch is pulled out you're in Rhythm mode and
when you push this switch in the Lead Master control is
activated - kicking in more gain and also a different volume
level which is determined by where you set the Lead Master
control. This switching can also be done via the supplied
P801 footswitch.
*
*Important note:
For the footswitch to operate, this control must be pushed in.
9. Lead Master LED
When this LED glows red it tells you that you’ve switched to
your lead setting.
10. Lead Master
This control allows you to set the volume of your lead sound
relative to that of your rhythm work.
11. Input Gain/Pull Rhythm Clip
Just like the Output Master knob, this push/pull rotary
control serves two purposes. Firstly, it dictates your input
gain which affects both the volume/distortion level of the
Rhythm channel and also the distortion in the Lead channel.
Secondly, pulling the switch out adds extra crunch to your
Rhythm setting, a feature which adds to the flexibility of this
channel.
12. Input Jack
Plug your guitar in here! We strongly recommend that you
use a high quality guitar cable - it’ll sound better and will help
prevent unwanted feedback and interference noise.
Rear Panel Features
1. Footswitch Jack
Plugging the supplied P801 footswitch in here allows you to
switch between clean/crunch Rhythm sounds and distorted
Lead tones.
Effects Loop
This series effects loop allows you to connect certain
external effects devices in the optimal position in the signal
path - between the preamp and power-amp sections of the
amp. Generally speaking, time based effects such as Chorus,
Flange, Delay & Reverb sound best when used in an effects
loop.
For most people though, Distortion, Overdrive, Fuzz and Wah
pedals sound best when used before the amp. Having said
this, remember - there are no rules! So, experiment and let
your ears decide what you like most.
Important note:
Always use high quality patch leads when using the Effects
Loop.
2. Effects Send Jack
For connection to the input of an external effects unit.
3. Effects Return Jack
For connection from the output of an external effects unit.
4. DI Jack
For connection to recording gear or a PA system.
5 & 6. Loudspeaker Jacks
Plug you speaker cabinet(s) in here. For optimum sound
and performance always use high quality speaker cables and
never use guitar cable(s) to connect this amp to your speaker
cab(s). Also, always ensure that the amp is connected to a
load (i.e. speaker cabinet(s) or a ‘dummy load’ device (such as
the Marshall SE100) and is set to the correct impedance.
Failure to do so will damage your amp (see item 7 for more
details).
7. Output Select Dial
As already mentioned, when using this amp you should
always ensure it is connected to a load. furthermore, it is
vitally important that the Output Selector is set to the correct
impedance for the speaker cabinet(s) being used. Damage to
your amp will result if either of these issues are ignored.
The Output Select dial allows you to select 4, 8 or 16 Ohms.
The standard Marshall 4x12 is rated at 16 Ohms in mono.*
Therefore, when using one such cabinet, set the amp to 16
Ohms. When using two 16 Ohm cabinets their combined
impedance is halved to 8 Ohms. So, when using two 16 Ohm
cabs set the amp's Output Selector to 8 Ohms. If you are
unsure of the impedance rating of a cabinet, you should
measure it will a multi-meter. If you don't know how to, ask
the help of someone who does. It's always best to be safe
than sorry!
8. Mains Select Dial
The Mains Select Dial allows you to easily and quickly adjust
your amplifier to match your country’s operating voltage. You
should always ensure that this is set correctly as you will
damage your amp otherwise.
*
Important Note:
All Marshall mono/stereo 4x12 cabinets - i.e. 1960A, 1960B,
1960AV & 1960BV or the specially produced Slash Signature
Cabinets, the 1960ASL and 1960BSL- have two input choices
when set for mono operation: 4 Ohms and 16 Ohms. Please
be careful not to use the wrong input by mistake.
9. Mains Input
For connection to mains. Always use a good quality mains
lead and always ensure that the plug is wired in accordance
with your country’s regulations.
10. Mains Fuse
For 110V/120V. supply, use 4A slow blow fuse only. For
220V/240V. supply, use 2A slow blow fuse only.
11. H.T. Fuse
Replace with a 1A slow blow 250V. fuse only.
Trouble Shooting Guide
If you have a problem with your amplifier, it is always best to
let a fully qualified approved technician check it over. Regular
servicing should prevent any major breakdowns and is an
extremely beneficial long term precaution.
Often it is the simplest thing that needs attention and it may
not be possible to get technical assistance. In this case you
may be able to keep the amp running at least until the end of
the show. The greatest care should be taken before removing
the back panel, that all mains power is disconnected. Also
remember that even after short periods valves will become
very hot.
The following list outlines some of the most obvious
problems and causes.
Problem & Cure
Valves and Pilot Light On but No Sound
1. Check to see if HT fuses are blown. If they are, replace
them with the same value fuse. If they blow again replace all
the power valves if possible.
2. Check standby switch.
3. Check Guitar & Speaker Connections
Constantly Blows HT Fuses
Check the output valves; If they need replacing use matched
sets and replace all power valves if possible. Have a service
centre check the bias on the output valves. If it’s too low the
amp will not ‘clean up.’ If it’s too high it will stay too clean no
matter how loudly you play.
3
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T E D E D I T I O N
★
L I M I T
4
