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Содержание 385.1584180

Страница 1: ...OWNER S MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385 1584180 i ii _ i _I I ii i i_ ...

Страница 2: ...expense for conditions beyond our control Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store Please remember if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire Kenmore Sewing Machine Record m space provided below the model number and seriai number of this applianc...

Страница 3: ... the Top Thread Tension 19_20 Stitch Selector 20 Stitch Width Control 21 Stitch Length Control 21 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance 21 Reverse Stitch Control 22 Starting To Sew 22 3 LEARN THE STITCHES Practica Stitch Chart 23 _26 Straight Stitches 27_29 o Straight Stitch 27 a Use the Seam Gutdes 27 o Turn a Square Corner 27 o Use the Darning Plate 28 o Topstitchmg 28 Darning 29 Straight Stretch 29 ...

Страница 4: ...ase _ then your Kenmore goes anywhere can be stored any where J J locate anaiiaentify ttle Parts i Upper Thread Guide Take up Lever Top Thread Tension Control Face Cover Piate Thread Cutter Needie Plate Thread Spool Pins Bobbin Winding Spindle Width Control Stitch Length Control Reverse Stitch Con trol Extension Tabte Accessory storage box 2 ...

Страница 5: ...Plate Hand Wheel Push Pull Clutch Stitch Selector _ Stretch Stitch Adiuster t JSll L_ght and j Power Sw_tch _ Plug Connector Carrying Handle i Free Arm Nomenclature Plate Presser Foot Snap on Button Foot Control ...

Страница 6: ...Bobbin Buttonhole opener Needle set Lint brush Darning plate Large screw driver Small screw drwer J Spool pin teft Zipper foot Stra3ght stitch foot Sliding buttonhole toot ...

Страница 7: ...e light and power switch to turn on the power and sewing light SAFETY FEATUR E Your machine wil not operate unless the lighttpower switch is turned on If you are interrupted or stop sewing turn off the light power switch to prevent injury to children o Foot Control Use Fool c ontro J The foot control regulates the speed at which you sew To increase speed gently press down with the ball of your too...

Страница 8: ...t the dial aligning the setting marl on the dial with the groove as follows 3 most sewing 2 applique and Cut Outwork 1 basting sewing chiffon lace organdy and other lightweight fabrics Also for velours and knits with more stretch NOTE The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure so the machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use it ...

Страница 9: ...al up _ pos_llon l Hi l i positron Presser toot lever The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presse r foot You can raise it about 1 4 higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot Thread Cutter Tuh rteeard You don t need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing Just use the handy thread c...

Страница 10: ...your index finger and thumb as shown Pull gently toward you The extension table will snap out To Attach Extension table To Attach the Extension TabJe for flat bed sewing t Fit the tabs into the slot as shown 2 With your thumb and index finger gently snap in Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing This feature makes sewing easy for J Bar tacking to reinforce pockets plackets and waistlines on re...

Страница 11: ... Stitching sleeves wmstbands pant oranycircular garment area J _egs Darning socks or mending knees e_bows or areas of wear in children s clothes Sawing buttons on sleeves waistbands etc ...

Страница 12: ...stitch you wish to sew Consult the Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various presser feet To Remove holder screw To Remove Turn the screw toward the back of the machine Use the large screw driver To Attach To Attach 1 Match the hole in the foot holder with the threaded hole in the presser bar 2 Fit the foot holder screw into the hole 3 Tighten the screw by turnin...

Страница 13: ...0 Bar tacking see page 32 Button sewing see page 3_44 Overcasting stitch see page 3__5 Rick rack stretch see page 35 Three step zigzag see page 36 Serging see page 37 Overcast stretch see page 3__7 Blind hemming see page 38 Lace work see page 40 Two point shell stitching see page 44 Smocking see page 455 Stretch patching see page 45__ Fagoting see page 46 Herring bone stretch see page 4_6 Elastic ...

Страница 14: ...40 i ii ilili iii i i il iiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiii iilill ii ilili i Zipper Foot E Zipper foot This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper The edges of the foot guide the zipper and keep the seam straight Uses Zipper application see page 4_2_2 Satin Stitch Foot F Satin stitch foot Use this transparent foot for satin stitch and outlining applique Usesz Satin stitch see page 31 Applique see p...

Страница 15: ... decorative topstitchmg on these fabrics This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstltching thread Green 18 for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top stitching on these fabrics Orange 11 Red 14 Purple 16 o Check Your Needle 1 Look for barbed or blunt point 2 A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits fine silks and silk Like fabrics Always buy a good quality thread It...

Страница 16: ...ilk A 50 Mercerized CottOn Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Silk A Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Silk A RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING 2 12 stitches per inch 2 2 5 10 12 stitches per rich 2 3 8 0 stitches per Lnch 3 8 stretches per mch 6 PURPLE 18 GREEN t t B LUE STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE Buttonhole Twist 3 4 6 8 stitches Use as top thread on_y per inch Pol...

Страница 17: ...e bobbin 3o Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown 4 Place the threaded bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle so that the thread comes out on top 5 Push the bobbin winder spindle to the right until it elicks_ 6 Holding onto end of thread depress the foot control 7 When the bobbin is slightly filled stop the machine and clip the thread coming from the bobbim 8 Slowly star...

Страница 18: ...unter cfockwJse left 2 Pu_l about 4 inches of thread toward you through the tension slot _ x F 3 Then pull the thread clockwise toward the back of the machine through the slot 4 Slide the bobbin cover plate while pushing it down slightly over the bobbin Atlow about 4 inches of thread to show above the needle plate 16 ...

Страница 19: ...w_th thread coming from the back of the spool 1 Draw thread into thread guide using both hands k j 2 3_ 4 5 6 NOTE While holding thread near spool draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder Firmly draw thread up and through take up lever from right to left Draw thread down and slip It through the thread guide Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide T...

Страница 20: ... 1 Rinse presser foot _ever Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn j 2 Bring bobbin thread up by pulling top th read 3 J Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear 18 ...

Страница 21: ...top thread Choose the Correct Tensmn The best tension will depend on the stiffness and thtckness of the fabric the number of fabric layers the type of stitch The top thread _s too loose_ Top s_de ol fabric The top thread appears on the underside ot the tabr_c G k_ Tension Is too loose The top thread shows through the bottom ot the fabnc The bottom side ot the stitch will feet bumpy The lop thread ...

Страница 22: ...t Mimmize the amount of top thread vtsibfe on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side Results vary with _abrlc thread and sewing conditions _Stitch Selector Red indicator J The stitch selector control determines the stitch you select Simply turn this control until the desired stitch is indicated by the red indicator on the ...

Страница 23: ...udy the orange yellow and blue sections around this control These are recommended zones of stitch length and color coded to the stitches pictured on the stitch indicator panei Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance 4 V h Smocking stretch Riekrack stretch tn stretch stitch sewing the stretch stitch adjuster should usually be m a neutral position between and or position When sewing some fabrics you may ne...

Страница 24: ...inches to the rear of the machine Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam 3 Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use The fabric should be double thickness Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric 4 Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle an...

Страница 25: ..._ate foot Strmght Zigzag Check Chart on p t4 Check Chart on p 14 Check Chart on p 1__44 Check Chart on p_14 Check Chart on p 14 2_6 2 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Posit on 3 _ 8 Orange Zone 2 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Postt_on 2 6 Orange Zone o t 5 2_5 2 3 Use on knits and other stretch fabrtcs good for topstitching Fimsh edges buttons satin stitch applique monogram embroidery sewing bar tacks Decora...

Страница 26: ... that require stretch I Use for fimshing seams Zigzag Check Chart on p 14 Sat_n Check Chart on p 14 2_6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3_5 Zigzag Bfue 11 on p 14 4_9 Orange Zone Use m smocking or as a decorative stitch 3 _ 5 Finish hems sleeve and neck opemngs Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam Do shetl tucking on blouses and lingerie 3 6 Yelfow Stretch Stitch Pos_t_on 3 5...

Страница 27: ...Chart on p 14 Zigzag Thread Stitch Tension Length 3 _ 8 Orange Zone 3 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Pos_tton 3 8 0 5 2 2 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3 8 Orange Zone i Stitch Width 3_5 3_5 5 Uses Use tot ovedappmg seams i Use for apptymg elastic Join two folded edges for decorative open work appearance Use for patchwork quilting Do shet_ tucking on blouses and fingene Th_s stitch can also be use...

Страница 28: ... Length Width 2 6 3_5 Check Chart on p 14 Check Chart on p 1_4 2 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3 5 Uses Refer to Page Use as hemming stitch for blankets table 46 cloth end draperms Blue Zone Buttonholes also corded buttonholes 40 41 Satin Check Chart on p 14 3_8 0 5 1 Use for applique work also as decorative fimsh for placematso blanketso collars cuffs and pockets 31 26 ...

Страница 29: ...ss the foot control 6 Hold the fabnc loosely and gently guide it along the guide line so that It feeds naturally Do not force the fabric or try to pul it tight I I 7 At the beginning and end of seam you may want to reverse to lock the stitch 8 Rmse the presser foot and remove the fabric 9 Cutthe threads Use the Seam Guides _ Cornering guide J The seam guides on the needle plate are engraved to hel...

Страница 30: ... 5 8 mark The feed dogs witt show through the darning plate holes Use the darning plate in the fotlowing ways Darning see page 2_99 Button Sewing see page 34 Topstltchi ng Set the Machine Stitch wsdth control 0 top thread tension controt 2 to 6 H Straight foot Stitch tength control Orange zone 4 Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses Topstitchmg emphasizes the lines of your garment and keeps seams...

Страница 31: ...r badly damaged use a separate piece of fabric under the hote to reinforce it 7 When you finish darning remove the darning plate and reptace foot holder and foot Set the Machine Stitch width control 0 234 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 H Straight foot Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position 2 Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch is the stretch variation of the straigh...

Страница 32: ...our machine It can be a utility stitch for sewing buttons buttonholes hem mmg overcasting mending and darn ing _t can also be used to decorate with trims appliques and cut out work or as a decorative stitch 30 Here s How There are many ways to sew a ztgzag stitch Consutt the specific variations for detaited directions Satin Stitch page 31 Applique Work page 3_2 Bar Tacking page 32 Monogramming pag...

Страница 33: ... is a versatile and often used decorat ve stitch but It can also be used to overcast a raw edge for ex ample blankets linens tablecloths and napkins The Satin stitch is especially attractive in applique Zigzag width C ose to 0 4_ TF Here s How Once your machine is set up to stitch you may want to experiment on a fragment of the fabric you are planning to use Too t_ght satin stitch may pucker some ...

Страница 34: ...of the applique When sewing corners lower the needle down into the fabric Raise the presser foot and p_vot the fabric to the right or left Bar Tacking Set the Machine Stitch w_dth control 2 to 5 _ 2 3 4 Top thread tenston control 2 t o 6 A Zigzag toot Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 2 Stretch Stitch t i i i Th_s stitch ts similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strai...

Страница 35: ...6 No presSer foot Stitch length controt Any number not necessary to adjust 2 Stretch Stitch Oarmng plate Here s How 1 Put the darning plate on the needle plate see page 28 2 Remove foot holder see page 10 3 Adjust the stitch width as desired see page 2I 4 Draw the design on to the fabric with tailor s chalk 6_ 7 8_ Stretch the fabric between embroi_ dery hoops and place under the needle Lower the ...

Страница 36: ...he center of the button holes to the center of the slot on the presser foot Adjust the stitch width so that needle wilt drop in each hole Lower the foot to hold the button in place Turn the hand wheel by hand so that needle will enter either hole of the button 4 Stitch several times _ J To strengthen the shank cut the threads leaving a 8 tail Bring the needle thread down through the hole m the but...

Страница 37: ... Hints Start overcasting about 1 8 inside the raw corner of your seam If you start right at the edge the fabric will bunch up and the stitches will become tangled 0 f Rick Rack Stretch Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A Zigzag toot Stitch width control 2 to 5 2 3 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position 4 Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses Sew on stretch fabrics in...

Страница 38: ...zag stitch It has more strength elasticity and is flatter than a regular zigzag The three step z_gzag stitch sespecial ly useful for mending sewing patches smoothly and securely repairing straight tears finishing seams 36 Seam Fimshtng Overcasting Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the edge witl be slightly inside the right hand side of the presser foot Guide the work so the right han...

Страница 39: ...allowance after Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling NOTE Use a blue stretch fabric needle which effectively prevents skipped stitches o Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching Set the Machine Stitch width controI 3 to 5 Top thread tenslon control 3 to 6 Stitch length control yel ow stretch stitch pos t_on A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses Use this sti...

Страница 40: ...ure turn up your hem and pin NOTE For light wmght fabrics you may need a double fold 3 Fotd the material bottom side out on the edge to be stitched as shown leaving t 4 of the finished hem edge showing 4 Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge The zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment 5 After hemming press both sides ...

Страница 41: ...i_ iiil iiii_i_i_ _ _ i i_iill ili i il _ili_ iiiii ii _iiii ii_ _ _ _ i i ili J Lace adds a fanciful feminine touch to blouses and lingerie Table linens and pillows become more elegant when trimmed with lace Turn raw edge of fabric under at least 5 8 Place lace underneath and top stttch using stretch blind hem stitch Trim excess fabric close to stitching 39 ...

Страница 42: ... plan to use to find the more suitable stitch length 40 1 a Caretulfy mark the buttonhole length on your garment b Change to the sliding buttonhole foot c Insert the garment under the foot with the buttonhole mark ing running toward you Q Coarse shtches lot heavy iabr_cs Fine st lobes tot lighl fabrics Stre_ ch S_ itch i i i ii iiiiiiiiiiiill 2_ a Move the slider A toward you so that the top mark ...

Страница 43: ...hebuttonhole c Stop sewing attherightstitch t_ 6 a Set the stitch selector at 1 1 b Sew 4 to 6 stttches c Stop sewing at the left stitch 7_ Remove the fabric and cut the hole open with the buttonhole opener in your accessory storage box NOTE When sewing at the edge of fabric set sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated and sew in reverse _ _ _ _ 41 ...

Страница 44: ...e right pins on the zipper foot o To sew on the right side of the zipper attach the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper foot 42 Zipper _eeth Zipper tape To Sew Reset stitch length at 2 and top thread tension at 2 to 6 Fold back the left seam allowance asshown 2 3 Turn under the right seam allow ance to form a 1 8 fold Place the zipper teeth next to the 1 8 fold and pin in place 4 Attach the...

Страница 45: ... 12 Stitch across and below the bot tom of the zipper I3 Turn the corner and continue to guide the foot among the zipper teeth as shown Stitch through the fabric and zipper tape 14 Stop about 2 from the top of the zipper 15 Lower the needle into the fabnc and raise the presser foot t6 Remove the basting stitches and open the z_pper t7 Lower the foot and stitch the rest of the seam Make sure the _o...

Страница 46: ...eate scalloped tucks on blouses and lingerie _i ii TwO Point Shell Stitching Here s How I For best effect J set the stitch length as you desire you may need to tighten the top thread tension slightly allow the needle to just clear the folded edge of the fabric when it zigzags Top thread tension control 3 to 8 A Zigzag foot Stitch length control orange zone 2 Stretch Stitch 2 If yOU sew rows of she...

Страница 47: ...t the threads along one edge Pull the bobbin threads and distribute the gathers evenly Secure the threads at the other end Sew the decorative stitch between the gathering stitches Pull out the gathenng stitches NOTE Loosen the top thread tension to make gathenng easier Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A Zigzag toot Stitch width control 5 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch...

Страница 48: ...and press 2 Pin the two edges to paper or tear away backing I 8 apart 3 Sew slowly guiding the fabrtc so the needle catches the folded edge on each side Herring Bone Stretch Set the Machine Stitch width Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch Iength control yeIIow stretch stitch posl t_on 4 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses Use as hemming stitch for blankets tablecloth and drap...

Страница 49: ...trol 3 to 8 Stitch length control orange A Zigzag toot Stretch Stitch Use this stitch to iota heavy weight interlining Overlap two raw edges together and use this stitch to join them Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments 1 Marl the elastic into quarters and match these to the center front center back and side seams 2 Place the middle ot the elastic under the center of the presser foot a...

Страница 50: ... thread Bent or blunt needle Loose presser foot Fabric too sheer or too soft Choose correct size needle tor thread and fabrfc Rethread machine Tighten upper thread tension Do not pull fabric guide _t gently Reset presser foot Rewind bobbin Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Do not pull fabric guide _t gently Choose correct s_ze needle for thread and fabric Reset needle Reset press...

Страница 51: ...ic Push pull clutch ts disengaged Choose correct size needle for thread and fabnc Insert new needle Reset needle Loosen upper thread tension Start to stitch at a medium speed Rethread machine Loosen upper thread tension Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric insert new needle Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Check bobbin threading Clean bobbin holder and hook race Remo...

Страница 52: ...machine operates at its best you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times The bobbin area can attract dust and tint Your machine can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread is caught cover plate Follow these directions 1 Turn off the power or unplug the machine 2 Remove the bobbin cover plate by firmly pulling _t toward you 3 Remove the bobbin 4 Brush or vacuum the dust and lint out...

Страница 53: ...cloth f 5 Take out the bobbin Lift up the bobbin holder and remove it Red marks v j Line up the red marks and place the bobbin holder so the knob fits next to the stopper in the hook race as shown above Open face cover plate and oil POints as shown below at least once a year One or two drops of oil is sufficient Remove excess oil otherwise it may stain fabrics In case machine is not used for an ex...

Страница 54: ...PARTS LIST 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 lO 12 14 15 16 52 ...

Страница 55: ...3 14 15 16 20 6868 102403202 813404013 6551 6552 6553 6554 652806003 685502008 825813005 823803006 822804118 6864 6797 820832005 41669 802424004 6830 6889 652802OO9 Bobbin box with 10 bobmes Spool pin felt No 11 Stretch fabric needles BLU No 11 Single needles ORG No 14 Single needles RED No 16 Single needles PUR No 18 Single needles GRN Straight foot Zigzag foot Sliding buttonhole foot Zipper foot...

Страница 56: ...tretch 24 37 P Parts list 52 53 Performance problems 48 _49 Plug connector 3 5 Portable case 2 Power switch 3 5 Practical stitch chart 23_26 Pressure control dial 6 Presser foot 3 I0_12 Presser foot lever 3 7 Push pull clutch 3 15 R Reverse stitch control 2 22 27 Rick rack stretch stitching 23 35 S Satin stitch foot 4 12 24 26 31 _33 44 52_53 Satin stitching 26 31 Seam guides 27 Serging 24 37 Serg...

Страница 57: ...f the sewing machine including electronic components motor w_rmg switch and speed control FULL 90 DAY WAR RANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS For 90 days from the date of purchase Sears will free of charge replace any parts and prowde mechanical service _ necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine except for normal maintenance WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWI...

Страница 58: ...our Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine See page 3 for location WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM PART DESCRIPTION if the parts you need are not stocked locally your order wil be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO Chic...

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