The power and signal pads on the PCB
conform to the FuzzDog Direct Connection
format, so can be paired with the appropriate
daughterboard for quick and easy offboard
wiring.
You can omit the depth pot altogether by
connecting DEPTH pads 2 and 3 with a
jumper.
You can mount the trimmers on either side of
the board, but putting it on the back with the
pots keeps it nicely out of the way.
Be very careful when soldering the LED and
transistors. They’re very sensitive to heat. You
should use some kind of heat sink (crocodile
clip or reverse action tweezers) on each leg as
you solder them. Keep exposure to heat to a
minimum (under 2 seconds).
The long leg (anode) of the electrolytic
capacitors go into the square pads.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they
can be mounted flush in the box.
The small metal tag on Q3 should be
positioned as shown above in red. the legs
will sit naturally in the holes in this position.
SWITCH
If you’re using a board-mounted micro toggle
you’re going to have to be very neat and
careful. Solder in C2 first, and ensure you
have very clean solder joints. Snip them down
as close to the board as you can.
The switch sits on the other side of the board
but there’s a metallic surface that can short
out the capacitor. Use something non-
conductive in between the switch and the
board, such as some flattened heat shrink.
Or you can just ensure there’s a gap between
the switch and the capacitor joints. We leave
the switch around 1mm away from the PCB.
Use your pre-drilled enclosure to line it up.
PC
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