Ford Granada 1985-1994, Руководство пользователя

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d) Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover.
e) Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing. If
necessary, mark the HT leads to aid
refitting.
2 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 15
inclusive of Section 18.
3 Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the contact surfaces of
the cam followers for wear. If wear is
excessive, considerable noise would have
been noticed from the top of the engine when
running, and new camshafts and followers
must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of
wear will occur unless a considerable mileage
has been covered. Note that the cam followers
cannot be dismantled for renewal of individual
components.
4 Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the
cylinder head and the bearing caps for wear. If
excessive wear is evident, the only course of
action available is to renew the cylinder head
complete with bearing caps.
5 Check the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the cylinder head must be renewed.
6 Check the cam follower oil grooves and the
oil ports in the cylinder head for obstructions.
7 Refit the cam followers and the camshafts as
described in paragraphs 27 to 55 of Section 18.
8 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 1.
Refer to Part A, Section 15 of this Chapter,
noting the following points.
a)
If the engine is in the car, refer to Chapter
6 when removing and refitting the clutch,
where applicable.
b) The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts
must be renewed on refitting; the new
bolts are supplied ready-coated with
thread-locking compound (see
illustration).
c) Check on the availability of new parts
before contemplating renewal of the ring
gear.
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt and a new lower timing
chain cover gasket must be used on refitting.
1 The crankshaft front oil seal is located in the
lower timing chain cover.
2 If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations.
a)
Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b) To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c) On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
3 Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 8
of Section 15.
4 With the lower timing chain cover removed,
prise the old oil seal from the cover using a
screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a
suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal lip
faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover. Note that the
seal should be fitted dry.
5 Refit the lower timing chain cover as
described in paragraphs 32 to 40 of Section 15.
6 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 2.
Note: New flywheel/driveplate bolts must be
used on refitting.
1 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
2 Extract the seal using an oil seal removal tool
if available. It may also be possible to remove
the oil seal by drilling the outer face and using
self-tapping screws and a pair of grips.
3 Clean the oil seal housing, then carefully
wind a thin layer of tape around the edge of
the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lip as the
seal is installed.
4 Install a new oil seal. Make sure that the seal
lip faces into the engine (see illustration).
5 With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
6 Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
Note: A new sump gasket will be required on
refitting, and suitable sealing compound will
be required to coat the sump and cylinder
block mating faces. Shims may be required
when mating the gearbox/transmission.
1 Sump removal and refitting is far easier if
the engine is removed from the vehicle,
however if the engine is in the vehicle, proceed
as follows. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle, proceed to paragraph 9.
2 Remove the clutch or automatic
transmission, as applicable.
3 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
4 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
5 Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
in the straight-ahead position then, using a
dab of paint or a marker pen, make alignment
marks between the intermediate shaft lower
clamp and steering gear pinion. Slacken and
remove the lower clamp bolt then disconnect
the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
6 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
7 Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
8 Support the crossmember with a jack, then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to
the underbody. Remove the bolts and carefully
lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow
the sump to be removed.
9 If the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep it upright until the sump has
been removed to prevent sludge from entering
the engine internals.
10 Unscrew the sump securing nuts and
bolts, and withdraw the sump from the engine.
Do not prise between the mating faces of the
sump and cylinder block. Discard the old
gasket.
11 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
12 Commence refitting by locating a new
gasket in the grooves in the sump.
25 Sump - removal and refitting
24 Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
23 Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
22 Flywheel/driveplate - removal
inspection and refitting
DOHC engine 2B•15
2B
22.1 Improvised tool used to hold flywheel
when tightening securing bolts
24.4 Tool used to fit the oil seal
A Rear oil seal housing
B Special tool
A tool can be improvised using
a metal tube, a metal disc or
flat bar, and two flywheel
bolts. Draw the seal into
position using the two flywheel bolts.
If the sump is stuck, gently
tap it sideways to free it (the
sump will not move far
sideways, as it locates on
studs in the cylinder block).