Ford Granada 1985-1994, Руководство пользователя

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6 When refitting, screw the track rod end onto
the track rod as far as the locknut, then back it
off half a turn.
7 Insert the ball-pin into the steering arm.
Tighten the balljoint nut to the specified torque
and secure with a new split pin. Nip up the
track rod end locknut, but do not tighten it fully
yet.
8 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle and
tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.
9 Check the toe setting as described in the
following Section. (This may not be strictly
necessary if the same track rod end has been
refitted, but is certainly advisable if any
components have been renewed.)
10 Tighten the track rod end locknut when
toe is correct.
1 Front wheel alignment is defined by camber,
castor, steering axis inclination and toe
setting. The first three factors are determined
in production; only toe can be adjusted in
service. Incorrect toe will cause rapid tyre
wear (see illustration).
2 Toe is defined as the amount by which the
distance between the front wheels, measured
at hub height, differs from the front edges to
the rear edges. If the distance between the
front edges is less than that at the rear, the
wheels are said to toe-in; the opposite case is
known as toe-out.
3 To measure toe, it will be necessary to
obtain or make a tracking gauge. These are
available in motor accessory shops, or one
can be made from a length of rigid pipe or bar
with some kind of threaded adjustment facility
at one end. Many tyre specialists will also
check toe free, or for a nominal sum.
4 Before measuring toe, check that all
steering and suspension components are
undamaged and that tyre pressures are
correct. The vehicle must be at approximately
kerb weight, with the spare wheel and jack in
their normal positions and any abnormal loads
removed.
5 Park the vehicle on level ground and bounce
it a few times to settle the suspension.
6 Use the tracking gauge to measure the
distance between the inside faces of the front
wheel rims, at hub height, at the rear of the
front wheels. Record this distance; call it
measurement A.
7 Push the vehicle forwards or backwards so
that the wheels rotate exactly 180°(half a turn).
Measure the distance between the front wheel
rims again, this time at the front of the wheels.
Record this distance; call it measurement B.
8 Subtract measurement B from
measurement A. If the answer is positive it is
the amount of toe-in; if negative it is the
amount of toe-out. Permissible values are
given in the Specifications.
9 If adjustment is necessary loosen the track
rod end locknuts and the outer bellows clips,
then rotate each track rod by equal amounts
until the setting is correct. Hold the track rod
ends in their horizontal position with a spanner
while making the adjustment.
10 Tighten the locknuts and outer bellows
clips.
11 Provided the track rods have been
adjusted by equal amounts the steering wheel
should be central when moving straight-
ahead. The amount of visible thread on each
track rod should also be equal.
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Raise and securely support the front of the
vehicle.
3 Remove the suspension lower arm pivot
nuts and bolts (see illustration). Disengage
the arms from the crossmember.
4 Disconnect the steering column shaft from
the intermediate shaft universal joint.
5 Remove the two bolts which secure the
steering gear to the crossmember. Draw the
steering gear forwards so that it is clear of the
crossmember and support it by wiring it to the
frame rails.
6 It is now necessary to support the engine,
preferably from above, using a hoist or an
adjustable support bar resting on the wings or
suspension turrets. Alternatively a jack and
some wooden blocks may be used from
below, but this is bound to obstruct access to
some extent.
7 Remove the engine mounting lower
securing nuts. Raise the engine until the
mountings are just clear of the crossmember.
8 Release the brake pipe clips from the
crossmember and slide the brake pipes from
their slots. Be careful not to strain the pipes.
9 Support the crossmember and remove its
four securing bolts. Lower the crossmember
and remove it from the vehicle.
10 Commence refitting by offering the
crossmember to the frame rails. Insert the four
securing bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque.
11 Secure the brake pipes to the
crossmember.
12 Refit the steering gear to the
crossmember. Tighten its securing bolts to the
specified torque.
13 Insert the suspension arms into the
crossmember and secure them with the pivot
bolts and nuts. Do not tighten the nuts and
bolts yet, just nip them up.
14 Lower the engine onto the crossmember.
Make sure that the engine mountings locate
correctly into the holes in the crossmember.
Tighten the engine mounting nuts. The engine
support bar or hoist can now be removed.
15 Reconnect the steering column shaft to
the intermediate shaft. Tighten the pinch-bolt
to the specified torque.
16 Lower the vehicle onto its wheels, then
tighten the lower arm pivot bolts to the
specified torque.
17 Reconnect the battery.
1 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle and remove
the front wheel.
2 Separate the track rod end from the steering
arm.
3 Unbolt the brake caliper, pull it off the disc
and tie it up out of the way. Do not allow it to
hang by its hose.
4 Remove the split pin from the suspension
lower arm balljoint nut. Slacken the nut a few
16 Front stub axle carrier -
removal and refitting
15 Front suspension
crossmember - removal and
refitting
14 Front wheel alignment -
checking and adjusting
Steering and suspension 11•7
11
13.4 Using a balljoint separator
14.1 Front wheel toe-in (greatly
exaggerated)
15.3 Front suspension lower arm pivot bolt