Installation
Instructions
8 <
<
<
<
Build
the
system
from
the
fire.
If
this
is
not
possible
you
can
make
use
of
an
extendable
adapter
section.
For
truing
up
the
exhaust
system
use
the
½
meter
pipe,
which
can
be
shortened
and
ensure
that
the
inner
pipe
is
always
2cm
longer
than
the
outer
pipe.
Parts,
which
are
shortened,
must
be
secured
with
a
self
‐
tapping
screw
Wall
and
roof
terminals
can
also
be
cut.
Do
not
insulate
but
ventilate
built
‐
in
flue
material.
(approx.
100cm2).
4.6
Constructing
the
false
chimney
If
possible,
carry
out
a
performance
test
at
the
fire
before
finally
finishing
the
installation.
4.6.1
Minimum
false
chimney
size
and
distance
to
combustible
materials
Construct
the
false
chimney
of
non
‐
combustible
material
in
combination
with
metal
profiles
or
of
masonry/concrete
blocks.
Always
use
a
lintel
or
reinforcing
bars
while
bricking
the
outlet.
They
should
not
be
placed
directly
on
the
fire.
4.6.2
Ventilation
The
ventilation
must
comply
with
the
applicable
local
standards.
Correct
ventilation
prevents
a
too
high
temperature
of
the
gas
regulator
block
and
its
electronics
and
also
limits
the
temperature
of
the
convection
air.
Therefore
plan
for
outlet
of
grills
and
a
ventilating
control
hatch
with
a
minimum
free
passage
of
200cm
2
per
grid
or
a
similar
alternative.
Place
above
the
grates
a
screen
plate
made
of
non
‐
combustible
material.
(see
Fig.
1.9A)
4.6.3
Installation
and
finishing
For
installation
and
finishing
the
following
points
are
of
interest:
A
=
Fixing
points
(Fig.
1.2).
B
=
Mouldings
(Fig.
1.2).
C
=
Spacer
(Fig.
1.2)
D,
F
and
H
(Fig.
1.3).
Please
note:
Ensure
that
the
fire
is
not
load
‐
bearing
with
regard
to
the
false
chimney
breast
.
(See
the
dimensional
drawing
Chapter
18.1).
Pay
special
attention
to
the
following
points:
1.
Check
during
work
if
the
glass
can
be
inserted
and
removed.
2.
Check
during
work
if
the
mouldings
B
(Fig.
1.2)
or
Q
(Fig.
1.5)
match.
4.6.4
Method
1
(Fig.
1.1a)
Build
the
false
chimney
breast
against
the
fixing
points
A
(Fig.
1.2).
The
installation
must
always
for
installing
and
removing
the
glass!
Take
into
account
the
thickness
of
the
finish!
Spacer
C
is
in
line
with
the
top
of
the
glass
slot
H
(line
F
)
(Fig.
1.3).
Do
not
use
spacer
C
as
a
supporting
structure.
Remove
the
fixing
points
(
A
)
on
the
side
wall
before
the
outlet
wall
is
finally
finished!
(Fig.
1.4).
4.6.5
Method
2
(Fig.
1.1b)
Process
see
Chapter
4.6.3
4.6.6
Method
3
(Fig.
1.1c)
Remove
the
spacer
C
(Fig.
1.5).
To
ensure
the
air
‐
tightness
of
the
unit
the
screws
must
be
replaced.
The
base
X
(Fig.
1.5)
must
be
2mm
clear
of
the
spacer
R
(Fig.
1.5)
and
4mm
above
the
glass
slot
H
of
the
unit
(Fig.
1.5).
This
will
allow
the
moulding
Q
(Fig.
1.5)
to
be
on
the
same
level
as
the
base.
4.6.7
Mounting
the
mouldings.
First,
place
the
bottom
moulding.
Then
place
the
left
and
right
mouldings
(
these
are
fixed
by
the
adjustable
magnetic
snappers)
Attach
the
upper
moulding
and
secure
it
with
the
3
Torx
screws.
(See
Fig.
1.2
B)
Remove
the
bottom
mouldings
using
the
supplied
magnetic
knob
(Fig.
1.8).
5
Removing
the
glass
Remove
the
mouldings,
see
Chapter
4.6.6
Place
the
suction
cups
on
the
glass.
Draw
the
sealing
cord
from
the
slot.
(Fig.
2.1).
Slide
the
glass
to
the
top
so
that
the
bottom
is
released
from
the
slot.
Now
pull
the
glass
out
and
gradually
down.
(Fig.
2.3).
Содержание 40010959-1440
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