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P/N 316439221
Consistently following a standard procedure when servicing appliances will insure that you
do not waste time searching for a complex solution to a simple problem.
One of the most common
mistakes made by service technicians is failing to verify the incoming power supply to the
appliance.
Many times electronic oven controls and other components are replaced unnecessarily
because the incoming power supply was not veri
fi
ed. The technician assumes that the power supply
must be good because the top burners or surface elements work. Most electronic controls must
have a 120 volt power supply before they will operate. This is usually accomplished by supplying
L1 voltage and
neutral or ground
from the household power supply. On most electric ranges if the
neutral or ground circuit fails the top surface elements will still operate but the electonic control as well
as any other 120 volt components such as the oven lamp, self clean latch motor, and some indicator
lamps will not function.
When testing the electrical supply to an electric range the test should be performed at the
terminal block where the power cord or house wiring attaches to the range. Verify that there are 240
volts to the two outside terminals on the block and that there is 120 volts from each of the outside
terminals to the neutral terminal in the center of the terminal block. You should also check the power
supply while the range is operating or “under load”. The power supply may check good with the range
sitting idle but fail when the elements are turned on. This can be caused by a weak connection in the
customer’s house wiring, or a faulty circuit breaker or fuse.
When servicing a gas range the power supply should be checked at the wall outlet with a plug
in circuit tester or volt meter. Make sure that the outlet is properly polarized and grounded. There
are many good plug-in circuit/polarity testers available that will perform this test quickly and easily.
When testing with a volt meter remember that the narrow slot in the wall outlet is the L1 or voltage
side of the circuit and the wide slot is the neutral. The round or “D” shaped hole is the ground circuit.
A properly polarized 120 volt wall outlet will have voltage between the L1 (narrow slot) and neutral
(wide slot) as well as between L1 and ground (See Fig. 1 below). Do not assume that because the
wall outlet has a ground slot that it is grounded.
Check it out!
Modern electronic controls must have a
correctly polarized and grounded power supply for proper operation.
Fig. 1
L1
Neutral
Ground
Another common mistake is failure to verify all component part wire harness connections. It is
essential that all component connections be checked visually and with the appropriate circuit tester.
Many times components are assumed to be faulty because they do not operate when the failure is
caused by a loose or miswired connection. New ranges may have loose connections resulting from
shipping and handling conditions or improper installation. A good example is if the EOC on a new
range can not be programmed it could be due to a faulty temperature sensor probe connection. Most
Electronic Oven Controls will not allow programming if there is no input from the probe. Check it out
before you replace the EOC.
When the repair has been completed the product should be thoroughly tested to verify that the
service performed corrected the problem and that all of the other features and functions of the product
are in proper working order. The extra time taken to do this will create consumer con
fi
dence in your
ef
fi
ciency and professionalism as well as possibly saving an expensive callback.
SERVICE TIPS - DEVELOP GOOD WORK HABITS
SERVICE TIPS - DEVELOP GOOD WORK HABITS
Содержание 30" GAS FREESTANDING RANGES
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