align the inner top with the bypass operating rod’s hole in the left side so that the bypass gate
operates freely without causing the operating rod to be forced to one side of the hole in the
stove’s left side. Adjust the bypass gate so it closes with only a little pressure.
12.
Transfer the original baffle, channel cap, and air distributor from the original inner top to the
new one.
13.
When the inner top is in place and the right side is attached and supports the inner top, use
hex bolts and steel tabs to attach the damper to the inner top. After you have positioned the
damper crank, damper operating rod, and adjuster--anchor the adjuster to the damper with a
hex bolt and nut below the damper.
14.
Re-attach the stove front, after cementing its seams where it joins the stove sides and the
inner top and the inner bottom. Add the doors.
15.
Install the catalytic combustor and insulator. Be sure there is Interam gasket around the
combustor.
16.
Re-install the brass bar across the top/front opening.
17.
Check the gasketing on the under side of the stove top to ensure a good seal here. Replace
the top. The bolts should be snug but not overly tight; over-tightening can warp the top,
possibly causing leakage.
18.
Direct the customer to re-‘cure’ the stove, to acclimate the new inner top to the pressures of
expansion and contraction. Curing is a series of five small fires, with each fire hotter and
longer than the previous one.