9
Glue former brace DT to rear of former DT.
Drill a 1/4” diameter hole through CT & C at punch
mark location.
6.
Drill two 5/32” diameter holes through firewall at
upper punch mark locations (place scrap wood under
backside while drilling to avoid splitout).
Temporarily install one of the motor mounts, using (2)
#6x1” socket head bolts and blindnuts. Do not pull the
blindnuts into firewall at this time, since they may need to
be removed at a later time.
7.
Position the engine between both mounts, holding it
vertical to firewall and parallel to mounts. Spread mounts
apart to match engine mounting holes (there are two
stamped reference lines for positioning mount directly
under the upper one.)
Mark straight down through holes in lower mount.
8.
Remove engine and mounts. Drill two more 5/32”
holes at lower mount location.
NOTE: Your kit may include an non-updated plan. The
1/4” ply motor mount extension is no longer needed with the
change to the fiber filled engine mounts now included with
the kit. If you have an older plan, please disregard any
reference to the ply extension.
9.
Mount propeller on your engine. Position engine over
fuse top view on plan and compare it to the installation
shown. Back of your prop should protrude 1/8” to 1/4”
beyond the cowl front as shown on the plan. Hold engine
in this location.For long 4-cycle engines, check for at
least 1/8” clearance between engine rear and firewall; to
obtain this clearance the engine may have to be shifted
forward as required. Measure the distance from the
engine rear to the firewall. Write this measurement down,
it will be used later for engine mounting.
10.
Position one engine mount, butting its rear flange
against the firewall location shown on the plan. Observe
how the front engine mounting holes relate to the engine
mount.
11.
Insert the four blind nuts into the holes on the BACK
side of the firewall. CA glue the nuts to the ply and seat
them into the firewall with a hammer.