A.J.S. 3.46 H.P., Руководство пользователя

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DETACHABLE REAR WHEEL
To remove proceed as follows.—Put the machine on the stand and unscrew the
two pins which hold the stays of the hinged portion of the rear mudguard to the frame. This
hinged portion can now be swung up out of the way. Next, with the special box spanner
provided, unscrew the three sleeve nuts which pass through the hub flanges. To prevent
the wheel revolving while unscrewing the sleeve nuts, place the foot against the tyre at the
bottom of the wheel, or alternatively the change speed lever can be placed in gear. The
three sleeve nuts extend right through the wheel hub flange, and screw on to the three
threaded studs on the driving sprocket. There are also three plain studs on the sprocket
which act as dummy drivers. These fit into the three remaining holes in the hub flange.
After the sleeve nuts have been unscrewed then unscrew the centre pin and draw it com-
pletely out, together with the distance piece. The space now left by the distance piece will
allow the wheel to be drawn off the driving studs in the sprocket, and removed from the
fork ends.
To replace the wheel, push it squarely on to the driving studs and next (with the
distance piece in position) screw up the centre pin moderately tight. The three sleeve nuts
can now be screwed up tightly, afterwards giving a final turn to the centre pin. It is very important
to point out that when the centre pin is removed the wheel is hanging on one fork only, so
any rough treatment must be carefully avoided or there is a great danger of damage.
Removal of Front Wheel.—
Disconnect the yoke end of the operating rod from the
brake drum lever, remove anchor plate bolt which passes through the lug between the fork
blades, and after slackening off the spindle nuts on either side, the wheel will then fall out
of the slots in fork ends. When the wheel is replaced, see that the brake anchor pin is screwed
in tightly and the spindle nuts are tight.
IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS WHICH MUST BE CAREFULLY CARRIED OUT FOR
DISMANTLING AND RE-ASSEMBLING TAPER ROLLER BEARING
HUBS :—
To dismantle, release the locking nut and screw out the adjusting ring. The dished
plate containing felt washer and plain plate will then drop out. Take out spring ring from
the opposite side of hub and remove felt washer and holder consisting of two plates and
retaining ring, the latter being between the two plates. The spindle can now be pressed or
driven out from either end. bringing with it one of the outer races. The other race can then
be driven out.
To re-assemble, press in outer race on fixed or plain end of hub, taking great care
that it goes in square. This race is pressed in about
Q
in. beyond its actual position, to
enable the felt washer and its retaining ring together with the two plates to be put in, and
the spring ring to snap into its groove. Care must be taken to put the plate with the larger hole
in last. This is most important. This outer race can now be forced back until the plates
are tight on. the spring ring. The spindle can now be inserted, the short end being placed
in first. The long end of the spindle must be on the adjusting side. The other race can now be
pressed in until there is about
z
th in. end play in the spindle. Insert plain plate and dished
plate with felt washer, screw in adjusting ring, and gradually screw down until there is just a fraction
of end play in the spindle. This should be .001 of an inch. It is of the utmost importance
that the bearings are not adjusted too tight, as this would ruin them in a few miles.
Having got this adjustment correct, the locking ring can be put on and tightened up, again
taking care that the adjusting ring does not / creep forward and make the bearings too tight.
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