Kenmore 385.16221300 Service Manual Download

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Summary of Contents for 385.16221300

Page 1: ...SERVICE MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385 16221300 JULY 2003 ...

Page 2: ...TCHING 15 16 DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING 17 18 STRETCH STITCH BALANCE 19 20 FEED DOG HEIGHT 21 22 NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT 23 24 NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING 25 26 NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHU I rLE 27 BACKLASH LOWER SHAFT GEAR 28 BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE 29 30 NEEDLE POSITION _ 31 32 ZERO FEEDING 33 34 BASIC NEEDLE POSITION 35 BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 1 36 BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 2 37 REPLACEMENT AND ADJUSTMENT OF NEED...

Page 3: ...dle Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control Stitch Width Setting Display e Stitch Control Hook Cover Plate Release Button Extension Table Accessory Storage Box Buttonhole Pitch Balance Adjusting Lever Buttonhole Lever Presser Foot Lever Stretch Stitch Adjuster Power Switch Machine Socket Drop Feed Lever Nomenclature Plate Presser Foot Thumb Screw Presser Foot Needle Clamp Snap on Button ...

Page 4: ...ON 4 THREAD ON BOTi OM SIDE OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP 5 FEED DOG TEETH ARE WORN HOW TO FIX INSERT THE NEEDLEPROPERLY CHANGE THE NEEDLE RETHREAD USE THE RECOMMENDED SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD USE A 11 BLUE TIP NEEDLE ADJUST THE PRESSER BAR LEVEL TO MAKE THE PRESSURE STRONGER SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHUFFLE TIMING SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE CL...

Page 5: ...TING THE SHUTTLE 4 THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING IT OR THE NEEDLE zIGZAGS WHILE IN FABRIC 5 FABRICISBEINGPULLEDTOO STRONGLY WHILE SEWING HOW TO FIX START WITH MEDIUM SPEED USE THE PROPER THREAD PATH REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE ADJUST UPPER THREAD TENSION CORRECTLY USE APPROPRIATE NEEDLE FOR FABRIC AND THREAD IN USE CHANGE THE NEEDLE REPAIR THE HOLE OR REPLACE THE NEEDLE PLATE THREAD ...

Page 6: ...LE STITCH BALANCEIS NOT CORRECT 2 IMPROPER SIZE ON AUTO BUTTONHOLE 3 CHANGING TO BAR TACK IS TOO EARLYOR WILL NOT WORK SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BACKLASH LOWER SHAFT GEAR ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION OIL ALL MOVING PARTS ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STITCH BALANCE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT T...

Page 7: ... THE THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOOL 1 DRAW THE THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE 2 HOLDING THE THREAD TAUT WITH YOUR RIGHT HAND DRAW THE THREAD DOWN INTO THE TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER 3 FIRMLY DRAW THE THREAD UP AND THROUGH THE TAKE UP LEVER FROM RIGHT TO LEFT 4 PULL THE THREAD TO THE LEFT AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD GUIDE 5 THREAD THE NEEDLE FROM FRON...

Page 8: ... down around the threader guide and under the hook _ Threader guide _ Hook Release the threader knob slowly while holding the thread end with your hand A loop of the thread is pulled up through the needle eye Remove the loop from the threader and pull out the thread end from the needle eye NOTE The automatic threader works well with the threads 50 100 and needles 11 16 the blue tipped needle as we...

Page 9: ...SERVICE ACCESS FACECOVER B 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER A 2 REMOVE THE SETSCREWS B 3 TAKE THE FACE COVER A OFF TOP COVER 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER A 2 REMOVE THE SETSCREWS B AND C 3 TAKE THE TOP COVER D OFF 7 ...

Page 10: ...VICE ACCESS A A B o 1 REMOVE THE FOUR SETSCREWS A 2 REMOVETHE BASE PLATE B BED COVER 1 2 REMOVE THE TWO SETSCREWS D REMOVE THE BED COVER E WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BED COVER SET THE FEED DROP LEVER F IN THE LEFT POSITION ...

Page 11: ...F BELT COVER IN THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROW AS ILLUSTRATED AND TAKE THE LATCH OFF AND THEN REMOVE THE BELT COVER WHEN YOU REATTACH THE BELT COVER SET THE PROJECTION INTO THE GROOVE ON THE FRONT COVER FREEARM COVER NEEDLE PLATE j B FREE ARM COVER 1 REMOVE THE SETSCREW A AND THE NEEDLE PLATE 2 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE PAGE 7 3 REMOVE THE SCREW B AND THE FREE ARM COVER 9 ...

Page 12: ...OVER SEE P 6 AND THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 3 REMOVE THE SETSCREWS A AND B 4 LOOSEN SETSCREWS C AND D THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER E 5 PULL THE FRONT COVER OFF THE LATCH F OF THE REAR COVER 6 REMOVE THE LOWER PART OF THE THREAD GUIDE G TO REPLACE FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE IN REVERSE 10 ...

Page 13: ... COVER SEE P 8 AND THE FRONT COVER SEE P 9 3 REMOVE THE SETSCREWS A B AND C AND LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS D E AND F 4 LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND PULL AWAY THE REAR PANEL UNIT FROM THE MACHINE FRAME TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER PART FROM THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER WHEN YOU REATTACH THE REAR PANEL PUT THE WINDOW ON THE PLASTIC PANEL OVER THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND THEN REPLACE THE SIX SCREWS 11 ...

Page 14: ...EEN 75 AND 90g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD A UP IN THE DIRECTION OF B USE POLYESTER SEWING THREAD 50 WHITE IF IT IS NOT WITHIN THE ABOVE LIMITS ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE FRONT COVER UNIT SEE P 9 2 PULL THE SPRING C AWAY FROM THE LEAD SCREW D 3 IF THE TOP TENSION IS TOO LOOSE TURN THE LEAD SCREW D IN THE DIRECTION OF E IF THE TOP TENSION IS TOO TIGHT TURN THE LEAD SCREW D IN T...

Page 15: ...T PROCEDURE 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER 2 RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER B AND LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW D ON THE PRESSER BAR HOLDER E 3 ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT A AND THE NEEDLE PLATE C TO 6 0 MM 0 24 4 TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW D SECURELY NOTE WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW D MAKE SURE THAT BOTH SIDES OF THE ZIGZAG FOOT A ARE PARALLEL WITH THE FEED DOG SLITS CE _ f I I c I 6MM F FEE...

Page 16: ... NEEDLE SWING STARTS FROM A POSITION 2 MM 0 08 TO 3 MM 0 12 ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE IN RIGHT OUTFLOW 4 TIGHTEN THE TWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM 5 ATTACH THETOP COVER UNIT NOTE FOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE TOP COVER UNIT REFER TO PAGE 2 AFTER THE TIMING ADJUSTMENT OF THE LATERAL NEEDLE SWING MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO BACKLASH BETWEEN THE UPPER SHAFT WORM AND THE OTHER G...

Page 17: ...RAIGHT STITCHING TO CHECK 1 SET THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL AT 0 AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT 2 TURN THE HANDWHEEL BY HAND 3 THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT SWING SIDE TO THE SIDE AT THIS SEFFING c T SELECTED PATTERN STITCH WIDTH CONTROL 15 ...

Page 18: ...STITCHING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE TOP COVER SEE P 6 2 LOOSEN SETSCREW A 3 MOVE THE ZIGZAG WIDTH ROD B UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES ITS ZIGZAG MOVEMENT WHEN YOU TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU 4 RETIGHTEN SETSCREW A SECURELY A B 16 ...

Page 19: ...N THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT 5 LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK THE NEEDLE POINT A ON A PIECE OF PAPER BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL 6 RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION 7 SLIDE THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO 6 5 8 LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK THE NEEDLE POINTS B AND C ON THE PIECE OF PAPER BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL 9 THE DISTANCE BETWEEN A B AND A C SHOULD BE EQUAL SELECTED PATTERN STITCH WIDTH...

Page 20: ...WING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER AND LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW D 2 MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER E IN EITHER DIRECTION UNTIL THE DISTANCES A TO B AND A TO C BECOME EQUAL 3 TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW D SECURELY B A C o 18 ...

Page 21: ... STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTER AT _1 2 PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT 3 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS ON THE PAPER 4 THE NEEDLE SHOULD PENETRATE THE SAME HOLE IN A FORWARD AND REVERSE DIRECTION WHILE TURNING THE HANDWHEEL TOWARDS YOU III o_ 2___ _ TM m Ill SELECTED PA I I ERN STITCH LENGTH CONTROL J 19 ...

Page 22: ... F 2 IF THE REVERSE STITCH LENGTH B IS SHORTER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH A TURN THE ADJUSTING SETSCREW E IN THE DIRECTION OF C IF THE REVERSE STITCH LENGTH B IS LONGER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH A TURN THE ADJUSTING SETSCREW E IN THE DIRECTION OF D 0 X X A B A B A B D E F 2O ...

Page 23: ...ND PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE 68496 ON THE NEEDLE PLATE 3 TURN THE HANDWHEEL AND CHECK THE FEED DOG HEIGHT 4 THE FEED DOG HEIGHT SHOULD BE IN ACCORDANCE WITH CHART 1 CHART 1 FACE A 0 95MM NOT MOVING NOT MOVING MOVING GAUGE FACE B 0 75MM MOVING NOT MOVING MOVING FEED DOG HEIGHT CORRECT LOW HIGH STRETCH LENGTH v 0 _I 2 3 4 C STITCH LENGTH CONTROL A 21 ...

Page 24: ... 1 REMOVE THE BED COVER 2 LOOSEN THE NUT A AND THE SETSCREW B 3 TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW C IN THE DIRECTION OF D WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT IS LOW OR IN THE DIRECTION OF E WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT IS HIGH 4 TIGHTEN THE NUT A AND THE SETSCREW B SECURELY o E C 22 ...

Page 25: ...GHT GAUGE 68168 D PUSH IT UP UNTIL IT STOPS 4 TIGHTEN THE NEEDLE CLAMP SCREW E TO CHECK 1 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR F REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION IF THE FINGER G COMES DOWN ON TOP OF THE PIN H OR IF THE PIN I TOUCHES THE SURFACE OF THE GAUGE K TOO FORCEFULLY ADJUST IT IN ACCORDANCE THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE NEXT PAGE 2 THE FACE OF THE FINGER G SHOULD HIT THE SIDE OF PIN H AN...

Page 26: ...HE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW M ON THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER L 3 MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR F UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE POSITION OF THE NEEDLE BAR F SO THAT THE FACE OF FINGER G HITS THE SIDE OF PIN H AND THE END OF PIN I TOUCHES THE SURFACE OF THE GAUGE K 4 TIGHTEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW M SECURELY o c 24 ...

Page 27: ... THE SLOT NEAR THE TIP OF THE HOOK 3 PUT THE TEST PIN 68368 D IN TO THE NEEDLE HOLDER E PUSH UP IT UNTIL IT STOPS 4 TIGHTEN THE NEEDLE CLAMP SCREW F TO CHECK 1 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE TIP OF TEST PIN 68368 D SLIGHTLY TOUCHES THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68497 C 2 THE TIP OF TEST PIN 68368 D SHOULD BE BETWEEN THE TWO WHITE LINES OF THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68497 C IF THE TEST PIN DOES NOT...

Page 28: ... HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES THE LOWEST POSITION 3 LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS G AND H 4 HOLD THE HANDWHEEL AND TURN THE LOWER SHAFT GEAR I UNTIL THE TEST PiN 68368 D COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO WHITE LINES OF THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68497 C 5 TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS G AND H G_ 28 ...

Page 29: ...IN A AND THE SHARP END B OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK SHOULD BE BETWEEN 0 05 0 002 AND 0 10 MM 0 004 ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE P 7 2 LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS C D AND E 3 TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW C TEMPORARILY 4 MOVE THE PLATE F IN EITHER DIRECTION AS SHOWN BY THE ARROW UNTIL THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE TEST PIN A AND THE SHARP END B OF THE SHUTI LE HOOK BECOMES BETWEEN 0 05 AND 0 10 MM 5 TIGHTE...

Page 30: ...RE IS MORE THAN A 0 8 MM 0 03 BACKLASH BETWEEN THE GEARS ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE P 7 AND LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW c 2 TURN THE LOWER SHAFT BUSHING ECCENTRIC BUSHING D IN DIRECTION E WHEN THE PLAY AT THE SHUTTLE HOOK TIP IS TOO SMALL 3 TURN THE LOWER SHAFT BUSHING ECCENTRIC BUSHING D IN DIRECTION F WHEN THE PLAY AT THE SHUTTLE HOOK TIP IS TOO LARGE 4 T...

Page 31: ...E AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT 3 SEW A BUTTONHOLE AND CHECK THE STITCH BALANCE BETWEEN THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDES OF THE BUI FONHOLE 4 THE CORRECT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE IS WHEN THERE IS THE SAME COARSE ON THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDES OF THE BUTTONHOLE r I _ WIDTH 0 1 2_3_4_5_6 5 C J LENGTH I_ 0 ml 2 3 4 _ m m C 1 STITCH WIDTH CONTROL STITCH LENGTH CONTROL n SELECTED PATTERN 29 ...

Page 32: ...EXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW A 3 IF THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BU I I ONHOLE IS TOO SPARSE TURN THE RING B IN THE DIRECTION OF C IF THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BUTTONHOLE IS TOO SPARSE TURN THE RING B IN THE DIRECTION OF D 4 TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW A SECURELY RING B HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW A INCORRECT CORRECT INCORRECT 0 30 ...

Page 33: ...NE AS FOLLOWS STITCH SELECTOR STITCH WIDTH CONTROL 2 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO THE CENTER POSITION 3 THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT MOVE WHEN YOU TURN THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO 0 0 1 2 3 _ 4_5_6 5 i tt _ I _ _ _TTERN STITCH WIDTH CONTROL 31 ...

Page 34: ...WHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO THE CENTER OF THE SLIT IN THE NEEDLE PLATE 3 LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS A AND B 4 TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW A SLIGHTLY 5 MOVE THE PLATE C IN EITHER DIRECTION AS SHOWN BY THE ARROW UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES TO MOVE EVEN IF THE DIAL IS MOVED FROM MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH TO ZERO 32 ...

Page 35: ...TOR TO _ AND THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL TO 0 PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE CHECK IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN YOU TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU THE MACHINE SHOULD NOT FEED A PIECE OF PAPER AT THIS SETTING v SELECTED PATTERN STITCH LENGTH CONTROL 33 ...

Page 36: ...OVER SEE P 8 2 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT _ AND THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT 0 3 PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE 4 IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW C IN DIRECTION A IF THE PAPER MOVES BACKWARD TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW C IN DIRECTION B BACKWARD 34 ...

Page 37: ...LEFT NEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZIG ZAG THEN SELECT THE LEFT NEEDLE POSITION IN STRAIGHT SEWING 3 IF THE RESULT LOOKS LIKE A SEE BELOW TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN DIRECTION D IF THE RESULT LOOKS LIKE B SEE BELOW TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN DIRECTION C 4 REPLACE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 ADJUSTING SCRE___r_ _ NEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZIGZAG NEEDLE POSITION IN STRAIGHT SEWING i i i i B CORRECT INCORR...

Page 38: ...THEN LOWER THE PRESSER BAR 2 LOOSEN THE SETSCREW A 3 PULL DOWN THE BH LEVER UNTIL IT TOUCHES FOOT R AND THE BAR B HITS THE FRONT BASE PLATE ALSO MAKE SURE THE BH LEVER ADJUSTING PLATE C TOUCHES THE FINGER D TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW A 4 RAISE THE FEED DOG AND SEW A BU Iq ONHOLE THEN CHECK THE LENGTH SHORT STANDARD LONG FRONT BASE PLA BH LEVER ADJUSTING PLATE C SHORTER PULLING BAR B_ TOUCHING HIT rING F...

Page 39: ...S ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 2 A IF THE BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO EARLY TURN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E IN DIRECTION C B IF THE BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO LATE TURN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E IN DIRECTION D 3 ATFACH THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 A B BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO EARLY BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO LATE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E fl 37 ...

Page 40: ...H THE GROOVE TO THE PIN B AND INSERT THE THREADER COVER C ADJUSTMENT OF THREADER PLATE 3 IF THE HOOK D IS TOUCHING THE RIGHT OR LEFT SIDE OF NEEDLE EYE LOOSEN THE SETSCREW E AND SLIDE THE THREADER PLATE H SEE DRAWING 2 4 IF THE HOOK D IS TOUCHING THE TOP OR BOTTOM SIDE OF NEEDLE EYE REMOVE THE FACE COVER AND LOOSEN THE SETSCREW F AND ADJUST THE THREADER POSITION SET PLATE G J THREADER KNOB DRA WIN...

Page 41: ...O LOOSE MOTOR BELT TENSION MAY CAUSE THE BELT TEETH TO JUMP OVER THE PULLEY 2 THE CORRECT MOTOR BELT TENSION IS ACHIEVED WHEN THE BELT IS PUSHED IN ABOUT 7 MM 0 28 9 MM 0 36 UNDER A PRESSURE OF ABOUT 300 GRAMS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 2 LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS A AND B 3 MOVE THE MOTOR UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE DEFLECTION TO ABOUT 7 MM 0 28 9MM 0 36 4 TIGHTEN THE SETSCREWS A...

Page 42: ... YOU SHOULD STILL CHECK FOR POSSIBLE LUBRICATION NEEDS WHENEVER SERVICING THE MACHINES OIL USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS A B C D E F G INDICATED BY THE BLACK ARROWS GREASE USE WHITE GREASE SUCH AS MOLYCOTE EM 40M AT THE POINTS H I J INDICATED BY THE WHITE ARROWS c i Dt _ I J 4o ...

Page 43: ...WIRING OF TERMINAL BLOCK M L L LAMP M MOTOR 41 ...

Page 44: ...SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED _DRIVER FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE 68496 NEEDLE HEIGHT GAUGE 68168 PHILLIPS SCREW DRIVER TEST PIN 68368 ALLEN SCREW DRIVER ALLEN WRENCH _UGE 68497 RADIAL TIMING GAUGE SHEET U1369C 42 ...

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