Kenmore 158.1813 Instruction Manual Download

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Instruction Manual

158.1813

Sewconsult.com 2002
Div. Sewing Educational Warehouse

Summary of Contents for 158.1813

Page 1: ...Instruction Manual 158 1813 Sewconsult com 2002 Div Sewing Educational Warehouse ...

Page 2: ...r Feet 22 Buttonhole Attachment 23 Design cams 24 Section II Starting to Sew 1 Garment Construction Stitches Straight Stitching 2 Zig Zag Stitching 3 Chain Stitching 4 Stretch Stitching 5 Special Finishing Stitches Satin Stitching 6 Buttonhole Making 7 Blind Hemming 8 Zipper Application 9 Mending 10 Darning 10 Button Sewing 11 Bar Tacking 11 Special Design Stitches 12 Single Needle Designs 13 Sing...

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Page 4: ...8 Pressure Regulator 22 Thread Spool Pin Base 29 Presser Foot Lever 23 Hand Wheel 30 Presser Foot Lock 24 Top Cover Plate 31 Thread Cutter 25 Spool Pins 32 Hinge Hole 26 Design Cam Cover 33 Feed Dogs 27 Bobbin Winder Tension Disc ...

Page 5: ...nd power switch 2 Raise hinge pins in the cabinet cutout Slip machine head onto pins 3 Tighten hinge screws securely 4 Push the plug onto three prong connector under the bed plate Lower machine head to front cabinet flap 6 Spool pins are packed in accessory box Screw thread spool pins in place Position nylon discs as shown in illustration Wipe ma chine of excess oil used in shipping ...

Page 6: ...e tension discs as shown Pull the spring wire loop up and past the top hook until the thread can be slipped into hook See Fig 2 When the thread is released the spring wire loop will return to position Fig 3 with thread in proper place Release spool of thread and hook thread into take up lever as shown Fig 4 Continue to thread machine exactly as shown Needle must always be thread ed in direction as...

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Page 8: ... shuttle 5 Insert bobbin into bobbin case mak ing sure thread is coming from bobbin as shown 6 Pull thread through slot of case as shown 7 Pull thread under tension spring 8 Holding latch open position case into shuttle and release latch Case should lock into place when latch is released 9 Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn Bring bob bin thre...

Page 9: ...gher the number the tighter the tension There are many reasons for having to reset your tension The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another The required tension depends upon the stiffness of the fabric thickness of the fabric numbers of layers of fabric being sewn as well as the type of stitch you are making It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using...

Page 10: ... TOP TENSIONS A perfect straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom Upper thread too tight Decrease Tension v Upper thread too loose Increase Tension ...

Page 11: ...h is satisfactory but the seam is puckered it may be necessary to loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads Be sure to balance them as indicated on Page 9 When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case make slight adjustments with a screwdriver Turn Counter Clockwise Turn Clockwise ...

Page 12: ...op thread lays on the fabric loosen upper thread tension and repeat test See Fig 2 Page 9 Grasp the stitching and pull with a snap to make the threads break a If both threads break tensions are balanced b If neither thread breaks both tensions are too loose c If upper thread breaks loosen top tension d If lower thread breaks tighten top tension Both threads do not have to break at the same place b...

Page 13: ...the 10 12 stitch per inch range which is the most commonly used A basting stitch is made by using the longest possible stitch setting 6 stitches per inch The red marking on the control is the setting used for the shortest stitches such as in Satin Stitching This control regulates the width of the stitch you select THE HIGHER THE NUMBER THE WIDER THE STITCH You may vary your zigzag stitch width by ...

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Page 16: ...g backwards and the seam will be fastened This control determines the feed of the feed dogs All simple forward stitches require that this control be set at red dot These stitches are the straight stitch zigzag mending blind hem and basic decorative designs Those stitches requiring an automatic reverse feed of the feed dogs are the stretch stitches and the reverse decorative designs Then the Stitch...

Page 17: ...the Special Stitch Variegator set at the Red Dot To make the stitches printed in white on this dial the Special Stitch Variegator must be set at S The red S setting illustrated is the one used for most of your stitching At this setting you may straight stitch stretch stitch or make a simple zig zag stitch As each stitch is dependent upon the settings of your other controls Carefully read the direc...

Page 18: ...ustrated setting and variegator set at red dot When the Variegator is turned to S a Smocking Stitch results For directions see the next section of this book The setting illustrated is used for special edge finishing and special stretch stitch for sewing elastic such as sportswear girdles and other garments that require stretch See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitches ...

Page 19: ...f the 20 insert cams to make decorative embroidery patterns Blind hems are made by using the setting shown with the Stitch Variegator on the red dot When the Variegator is set on the White S overcast stretch ing is made with a forward and reverse action of the machine ...

Page 20: ...he garment industry for many years It forms a good looking seam as well as overcasts the edges It is imperative that this stitch is used for seaming of swimwear stretch ski pants and other types of knit sportswear Variegator must be set on the White S ...

Page 21: ... on the presser foot See above To increase the pressure push down inner pin until a suitable pressure is obtained Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric skipped stitches or difficulty in guiding the fabric If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric reduce the pressure When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric reduce the pressure Increase pressure when sewing l...

Page 22: ...2 The light and power switch shown in Fig 2 provides the electric current for the motor as well as for the light In order to operate the machine this switch must be on To turn on the light depress the upper side of the switch If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattend ed just turn off the switch and the ma chine cannot be started accidentally Fig 3 The sewing light is ...

Page 23: ...s highest position and raise presser foot 2 Open hand hole cover plate 3 Remove multi purpose needle plate by placing thumb under edge of plate and lifting it up and out 4 Reverse and reposition the needle plate as shown 5 Lock it into place by fixing hand hole cover plate in position CAUTION DO NOT BEND multi purpose needle plate when you reverse the plate Fig 4 Seam guides are printed on either ...

Page 24: ...u never use one in your machine that is not this exact length Raise needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you Loosen the needle clamp screw Hold ing the needle with the flat side away from you slip the needle into the needle bar When it is in as far as it will go tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver If you have a double needle for decora tive stitching it...

Page 25: ...ight Knits Satin i Cotton Cotton Blends Poplin Percale Cotton 60 80 Gingham Shantung Pique Seersucker Synthetic 14 Velveteen Double Kr fits Light weight Mercerized 50 60 I Wool Linen Leather Fake Furs Vinyls Cotton 40 60 Heavy Cotton such as Corduroy Mercerized 50 16 Denim Decorator Fabrics Wool Mercerized Heavy Duty Coating and Suiting Cotton otton 3 rcerized H 50 18 Heavy Twills Denims Coatings ...

Page 26: ...ever can raise the foot beyond the normal up position After the foot is placed on the presser bar lift the lock as high as it will go to hold the foot securely You have been given a variety of presser feet A Metal Zigzag Foot B Metal Satin Stitch Foot for decorative stitching C Clear Plastic Satin Stitch Foot D Straight Stitch Foot E Sears Stretch Stitch Foot F Plastic Zipper Foot ...

Page 27: ...2 Templates is furnished with buttonhole guide plate Each template is marked with the types and lengths of buttonhole on its top Measurements are expressed in inches and in millimeters 4 Desired size of buttonhole is select ed by turning template advance knob Length of buttonhole appears in window on top side of guide plate Details in using this attachment are given in the next section Follow thos...

Page 28: ...zag stitch Some of the designs can be changed by using the Special Stitch Variegator as well Please read the Special Design Stitching pages in the next section of the book You will be told how to insert the cams and the machine settings to use to make the illustrated designs You will find many uses for the designs in combination with appliques bias tapes laces and other decorative trimmings It is ...

Page 29: ...ap of fabric you plan to use The fabric should be double thickness Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric 3 Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5 8 seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam 4 Run the machine at slow even speed...

Page 30: ... of sewing temporary and permanent 1 Temporary stitching Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer of fabric The various types of temporary stitching are Basting Stay stitching Guide line marking 2 Permanent stitching This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good loo...

Page 31: ...so seam will be strong as possible It may be necessary to lengthen your stitch slightly and reduce the pressure on the presser foot if you are sewing very thick fabrics Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot Lower needle into fabric about 1 2 inch from begin ning of seam Depress lever and stitch in reverse until needle reaches begin ning of seam Release lever and complete seam ...

Page 32: ...ted in the illustration for the simple zigzag Follow directions given in the follow ing pages for more specific uses Special Stitch Dial NMMO Stitch Length Control Any number Stitch Width Control 1 to 4 Special Stitch Variegator Red Dot Use zig zag presser foot and zig zag hole on multi purpose needle plate ZIGZAG WIDTH CONTROL In order to get Simple Zig Zag Stitches just turn outer rim The higher...

Page 33: ...ch Width Control Red S special Stitch Variegator Red Dot Jse straight stitch foot chain stitch adapter chain stitch needle plate DUSTING MACHINE FOR 1 Be sure the needle is at its highest position by turning handwheel 2 Remove hand hole cover plate 3 Remove multi purpose needle plate bobbin and bobbin case from shuttle 4 Insert chain stitch adapter onto the shuttle center pin Be sure the adapter c...

Page 34: ...w stitches have been made 6 Start the machine and stitch to end of seam and stop the machine Do not sew beyond the end of fabric 1 Hold end of stitch with left hand Fig 3 and turn hand wheel away from you until the take up lever is at its highest position At this point the last stitch is released by the adapter 2 Remove your fabric gently with fingers holding end of stitching Fig 2 Fig 4 3 Holding...

Page 35: ...ould be used b I KAIGI 1 I STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial WftFS1 Stitch Length Control 12 to 10 Stitch Width Control Red S Special Stitch Variegator White S Use straight stitch presser foot and straight stitch hole on multi purpose needle plate This stitch enables you to press open your seams as with any straight stitch ed seam The seam will stretch with fabric without breaking the thread ...

Page 36: ...h to smock Step 2 Settings Special Stitch Dial BAs Stitch Length Control 12 to 10 Stitch Width Control 3 to 4 Special Stitch Variegator White S Use stretch stitch foot and zig zag hole on With a narrow strip of fabric directly under the line of gathering stitch over the gathers The design will be a series of small diamonds Make the design more interesting by using two different colors of thread an...

Page 37: ...overcasting a neat edge on the seams INGS al Stitch Dial WM n Length Control 12 to 10 h Width Control 4 vial Stitch Variegator White S awovooovyy00 v 0 This is a good stitch to use in making or repairing lingerie The stitch is decora tive as well as useful Simply stitch the elastic into place around the waist of the garment making sure that the elastic is evenly spaced To do this mark the correct ...

Page 38: ...rts wear It is used for seams of 3 8 to 1 4 The seam is formed and finished in one operation It must be used when you are making swimwear ski pants and other garments that require stretch Fig 1 shows the raw edge finished Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling Fig 1 ...

Page 39: ...r the stitch you make the looser the tension should be If you are stitching on a very soft fabric it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of the fabric As with all special stitches it is best to make a sample design on your fabric before starting the ...

Page 40: ...tonhole by turning the Template Advance Knob 4 Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole Drop guide plate into place over gear on cover plate 5 Pick up bobbin thread through guide plate by turning hand wheel and drawing thread to back Place fabric between presser foot and guide plate Lower presser foot and start sewing...

Page 41: ...titch Fig 1 Press Place garment under presser foot so Fig 3 that straight stitches will follow basting or raw edge and the blind zigzag stitch just catches the fold of the hem Fig 3 Fig 4 Fold hem back against right side of garment with basted raw edge extend ing about 1 8 to right of garment fold Fig 2 Or If you have an edgestitcher place the fold of the hem in the two left slots of the attachmen...

Page 42: ...t so the needle clears the side notch on the foot See Fig 1 Carefully follow directions given on the zipper package V L Z1 PPE Fig 2 Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper See Fig 2 Follow the zipper manu facturer s instructions After zipper has been inserted finish sewing seam by shifting foot to ...

Page 43: ...to use a piece of fabric under the tear for re inforcement ZNING ETTINGS pecial Stitch Dial NMMOs titch Width Control S pecial Stitch Variegator Red Dot Remove presser foot stretch fabric be tween embroidery hoops with hole centered Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning Lowering the presser bar start...

Page 44: ...y hand so needle enters second hole Re adjust stitch width if necessary Stitch a number of times 5 Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie e I E I 1 I l r I I I I 1 I I l I I I I I 1 I I I I 1 I I I BAR TACKING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial WNMIS1 Stitch Width Control 2 to 4 Stitch Length Control Red Zone Use ziq zag presser f...

Page 45: ... sure the retaining pin C enters the hole in the cam and the cam is seated as far down as it will go To start a pattern at its beginning align the engraved dot on the cam with the follower B To do this slip the cam onto the shaft so the engraved dot is as near the cam fol lower as possible If the dot is not aligned with the follower turn the hand wheel toward you until the dot is aligned If the ma...

Page 46: ...resting and attractive uses of the designs You will soon be combining designs and creating new uses when you be come familiar with your machine Fig 1 Design on a collar Fig 4 Combination of designs r rr r fr rYY Vrr V VfIr Y r1 wN r lW rr Fig 2 Design on bias tape Fig 5 Fig 6 Desic n e Van 3n hem r v u rrrrv rr J mvJ Fig 3 Variation of widths of designs rY1 yN eM 5nr vr 44yA w w l mh 5 yr MM vy jl...

Page 47: ... DECORATIVE DESIGNS SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial CAM Special Stitch Variegator Red Dot Stitch Length Control Red Zone Use satin stitch foot and zig zag hole on Stitch Width Control 1 to 4 multi purpose needle plate ...

Page 48: ... White M Stitch Width Control 1 to 4 Use satin stitch foot and zig zag hole on ri i iJ it In addition to the basic designs on the previous page you can sew the interesting reverse stitch designs shown below Page 14 and the next page show the variations of the same designs 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 30 36 43 ...

Page 49: ...ign turn control toward L Fig 1 Shortened design Fig 2 M Setting Standard size of design L l LSL I LS Fig 3 Lengthened design Basic and Reverse Patterns as made with the Double Needle Using the double needle and two colors of thread you may create unusual and different designs with both the basic design cams and the reverse stitch cams See next page for directions for stitching with the double nee...

Page 50: ...ay from you Slip the needle into the needle bar as far as it will go Tighten the screw db THREADING THE DOUBLE NEEDLE Place a spool of thread on each spool pin Draw both threads through the upper thread tube Pass a thread between each set of tension discs of the thread tension assembly Con tinue threading as you do for single needle sewing except where double thread guides are provided Draw one th...

Page 51: ... needle tip just piercing the fabric Raise the presser foot shift fabric half the turn lower presser foot and take one stitch Raise the presser foot again complete the turn and begin stitching in the new direction THINGS TO REMEMBER WHEN DESIGN STITCHING 1 Always make a practice design on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use 2 Start with a full bobbin and plenty of thread on the spool to avoid ru...

Page 52: ...it gently Breaking Incorrect size needle Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Needle Incorrect setting of needle Reset needle Loose presser foot Reset presser foot Upper and lower threads not drawn foot Bunching of back under presser foot Draw both threads back under presser Thread Feed dog down Raise feed dog Incorrect thread tension s Reset thread tension s Light pressure on presser ...

Page 53: ...er thread tension Loosen upper thread tension Incorrect size needle Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Sharp eye in needle Insert new needle Improper bobbin case threading Check bobbin case threading Breaking Bobbin Thread Tight bobbin thread tension Loosen bobbin thread tension Lint in bobbin case or shuttle Clean bobbin case and shuttle Feed dog down Raise feed dog Fabric not Light...

Page 54: ...ng on elastic Sears Stretch Stitch Foot Feather stitch Blind Hem Special Overcast Stitch Mercerized Thread Terry Cloth Use same settings as for Serging Size 14 Needle Regular Corduroy Stitch except Stitch Variegator should be set on Red dot Terry Cloth Serging Stitch Mercerized Thread Stretch Overcast Stretch Size 14 Needle Straight or simple zig zag Mercerized or Silk Thread Leather Size 14 Needl...

Page 55: ...be torn away and the interfacing cut away after sewing Check your fabric by making samples of the designs monograms or buttonholes on a scrap of fabric before sewing on your garment Fabric Special Stitches to Use Special Notions to Use Serging Stretch Polyester nylon or dacron core thread Stretch knits for Overcast Stretch Sharp new needle Size 9 or 11 Swimwear and Elastic Stretch Sears Stretch St...

Page 56: ...the Shuttle Area 1 This area must be kept free of dust lint and occasional tangled thread Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case 2 Push levers of shuttle race aside and lift shuttle race cover and shut tle out 3 Clean the shuttle race with small brush 4 Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race Shuttle Race Cover see arrows 5 To reassemble ho...

Page 57: ...O A rnvrn or nrr Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head To remove cover plate insert a screw driver into the spacing between arm casting and top cover plate and lift the cover plate as illustrated below ...

Page 58: ...tion IV Page 3 OILING UNDERSIDE Tilt machine head back to oil points indicated on underside of machine OILING IN FACE COVER PLATE Swing hinged face cover plate open and oil points indicated in illustration ...

Page 59: ...M E M O ...

Page 60: ...PARTS LIST 7 8 9 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 ...

Page 61: ...r rubber ring 9 28908 Large motor belt 30083 Small motor belt 10 1222 Bobbin winder tension disc 11 35040 Standard zigzag foot 12 35089 Satin stitch foot 13 35091 Plastic satin stitch foot 14 35092 Straight stitch foot 15 6784 Sears stretch stitch foot 16 6759 Zipper foot 17 28776 Chain stitch adapter 18 30098 Chain stitch needle plate 19 26844 Pattern disc 4 26845 Pattern disc 5 26847 Pattern dis...

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