Brother Innov-is 40 Operation Manual Download

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US_low_coverEN

PANTONE 285

Black

English

885-V12

XE2426-001

Printed in China

Operation Manual

Computerized Sewing Machine

GETTING READY

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

885-V12

Operation Manual

Summary of Contents for Innov-is 40

Page 1: ...Operation Manual Computerized Sewing Machine GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX ...

Page 2: ...ical outlet Do not pull on the cord Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet Do not use an extension cord Always unplug your machine if the power is cut 3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug if it is not working properly if it has been dropped or damaged or water is spilled on the unit Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for exa...

Page 3: ...nd the machine needle Switch the sewing machine to the symbol O position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate as it could cause the needle to break Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break 6 This machine is not ...

Page 4: ...inspect and adjust the machine yourself If the problem persists please consult your local authorized Brother dealer Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual Save these instructions The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice For additiona...

Page 5: ...ace the fuse cover Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND This sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children and assistance may be required if used by a person with a disability ...

Page 6: ...5 ...

Page 7: ...he Needle 27 Needle precautions 27 Needle types and their uses 28 Checking the needle 29 Replacing the needle 29 Replacing the Presser Foot 31 Presser foot precautions 31 Replacing the presser foot 31 Removing the presser foot holder 32 Using the optional walking foot 33 Useful Functions 35 Changing the needle stop position 35 Changing the initial needle position 36 Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pie...

Page 8: ... Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 67 Stretch stitching 67 Elastic attaching 67 Appliqué Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 69 Appliqué stitching 70 Patchwork crazy quilt stitching 70 Piecing 71 Quilting 71 Free motion quilting 72 Reinforcement Stitching 74 Triple stretch stitching 74 Bar tack stitching 75 Decorative stitching 77 Fagoting 78 Scallop stitching 78 Smocking 79 Shell tuck stitching 79 Joini...

Page 9: ... the flat bed attachment when sewing cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs h Operation buttons and sewing speed controller page 9 Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing machine i Operation panel page 10 Use to select stitches and various other stitch settings j Pattern selection dial page 40 Use to select the pattern to sew k Handwheel Turn the handwheel toward you to sew one stit...

Page 10: ...r the presser foot m Needle clamp screw Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place Operation buttons The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations a Start stop button Press the start stop button to start or stop sewing The machine sews at a low speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is continuously pressed When sewing is stopped the...

Page 11: ...tch key page 46 The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching e Needle mode selection key single twin page 25 Press this key to select the twin needle sewing setting Each time this key is pressed the setting switches between that for single needle sewing and for twin needle sewing Flat bed attachment The accessories a...

Page 12: ...1 4 Zipper foot I X59370 021 18 Spool cap small 130013 154 5 Zigzag foot J on machine XC3021 051 19 Extra spool pin XE2241 001 6 Blind stitch foot R X56409 051 20 Spool net XA5523 020 7 Button fitting foot M 130489 001 21 Foot controller XD0501 021 EU area XC8816 021 other areas 8 Seam ripper X54243 051 9 Bobbin 4 SA156 SFB XA5539 151 22 Operation manual XE2426 001 10 Needle set X58358 021 23 Quic...

Page 13: ...4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 No Part Name Part Code No Part Name Part Code U S A Canada Others U S A Canada Others 1 Side cutter SA177 F054 XC3879 002 7 Non stick foot SA114 F007N XC1949 002 2 Quilting guide SA132 F016N XC2215 002 8 Open toe foot SA147 F027N XC1964 002 3 Wide table SA552 WT8 XE2472 001 9 Stitch guide foot P SA160 F035N XC1969 002 4 Walking foot SA140 F033N XC2214 002 10 1 4 inch quilting foo...

Page 14: ... correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection During electrical storms WARNING Use only the power cord included with this machine Do not use extension cords or multi plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them Fire or electric shock may result Do not touch the plug with wet hands Electric shock may result When unplugging the machine always turn off the main power first Alwa...

Page 15: ... is not sewing b Press the left side of the main power switch on the right side of the machine set it to X The sewing lamp and the LCD go off when the machine is turned off c Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet Grasp the plug when unplugging the power cord d Unplug the power cord from the power supply jack Note If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated turn o...

Page 16: ...l and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom Only use the bobbin part code SA156 SFB XA5539 151 designed specifically for this sewing machine Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine If bobbins from other models are used the machine will not operate correctly Use only the included bobbin or ...

Page 17: ... size of the spool When the spool net is used the tension of the upper thread will slightly increase Be sure to check the thread tension For details refer to Adjusting the thread tension page 47 a Spool net b Spool c Spool cap d Spool pin g While holding the spool with your right hand and then pass the thread under the thread guide a Thread guide h Pass the thread under the thread guide cover from...

Page 18: ...the bobbin winding becomes slow press start stop button once to stop the machine o Cut the thread slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left and then remove the bobbin from the shaft Memo When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin the machine will make a clicking sound this is not a malfunction The needle cannot move sewing is not possib...

Page 19: ...rwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine If bobbins from other models are used the machine will not operate correctly Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type part code SA156 SFB XA5539 151 a This model b Other model c 11 5 mm 7 16 inch actual size Before installing the bobbin or replacing the ne...

Page 20: ... spring Memo The direction for feeding the bobbin thread is indicated by marks around the needle plate cover Be sure to thread the machine as indicated f Reattach the bobbin cover Insert the tab in the lower left corner of the bobbin cover A and then press down on the right side B Memo You can begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before startin...

Page 21: ...ak The needle threader can be used with sewing machine needles 75 11 through 100 16 Use appropriate thread and needle combinations For details on appropriate needle and thread combinations refer to Needle types and their uses page 28 Thread with a thickness of 130 20 or thicker cannot be used with the needle threader The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle If the...

Page 22: ...ocedure a Mark on handwheel d Swing up the spool pin and then remove the spool cap a Spool pin b Spool cap e Fully insert the spool for the upper thread onto the spool pin Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom a a b If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly the thread may become tangled around the sp...

Page 23: ...ol net is used the tension of the upper thread will slightly increase Be sure to check the thread tension For details refer to Adjusting the thread tension page 47 a Spool net b Spool c Spool cap d Spool pin g While holding the spool with your right hand and then pass the thread under the thread guide a Thread guide h Pass the thread under the thread guide cover from the back to the front Hold the...

Page 24: ...e needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand and pulling the thread into the guide from right to left a Needle bar thread guide l Lower the presser foot lever a Presser foot lever m While lowering the needle threader lever hook the thread onto the guide a Needle threader b Thread c Guide n Catch the thread on the hook as shown below a Needle threader lever o Raise the needle t...

Page 25: ...ad guide as described in steps a through k of Threading the upper thread and then lower the presser foot lever b Turn off the sewing machine c Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from front to back d Raise the presser foot lever a Presser foot lever e Pass the end of the thread through the presser foot and then pull out about 5 cm 2 inches of thread toward the rear of the machin...

Page 26: ...f the bobbin winder shaft e Install the thread spool and thread the upper thread Memo When setting the thread spool set it so that the thread winds off from the front of the spool f Thread the upper thread for the right side in the same way that the upper thread for the left side was threaded a Thread guide cover For details refer to step a through j of Threading the upper thread page 20 g Without...

Page 27: ...hread and fabric that are used If this occurs increase the stitch length For details on adjusting the stitch length refer to Adjusting the stitch length and width page 40 When using the twin needle be sure to attach zigzag foot J otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged After adjusting the stitch width slowly turn the handwheel toward you counterclockwise and check that the nee...

Page 28: ...needle Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous for example if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below Only use home sewing machine needles Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine Never use bent needles Bent needles can easily break possibly resulting in injuries CAUTION ...

Page 29: ...dcloth Cotton thread 60 80 75 11 90 14 Taffeta Synthetic thread Flannel Gabardine Silk thread 50 Thin fabrics Lawn Cotton thread 60 80 65 9 75 11 Georgette Synthetic thread Challis Satin Silk thread 50 Thick fabrics Denim Cotton thread 30 50 90 14 100 16 Corduroy Synthetic thread 50 60 Tweed Silk thread Stretch fabrics Jersey Thread for knits 50 60 Ball point needle golden colored 75 11 90 14 Tric...

Page 30: ...surface Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below Use the screwdriver and a correct needle as described in Checking the needle a Press needle position button once or twice to raise the needle a Needle position button b Turn off the sewing machine c Lower the presser foot lever a Presser foot lever a b a a Before replacing the needle be sure to turn off the sewing machine otherwise...

Page 31: ...to the machine may result e With the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the machine insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper a Needle stopper f While holding the needle with your left hand tighten the needle clamp screw Turn the screwdriver clockwise Install the twin needle in the same way b a a Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tigh...

Page 32: ...resser foot holder Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot causing the needle to bend or break Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine CAUTION Before replacing the presser foot be sure to turn off the sewing mac...

Page 33: ...r foot lever so that the presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder X The presser foot is attached g Raise the presser foot lever to check that the presser foot is securely attached Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing the optional walking foot a Remove the presser foot For details refer to Replaci...

Page 34: ... dogs and the teeth on the presser foot This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot Attaching the walking foot a Remove the presser foot holder For details refer to Removing the presser foot holder page 32 b Hook the connecting fork of the ...

Page 35: ... and then remove the walking foot a Presser foot holder screw e Attach the presser foot holder For details refer to Removing the presser foot holder page 32 Memo Only the straight stitch with reinforcement stitching and the zigzag stitch can be used with the walking foot For details on the stitches refer to Stitch settings page 87 The optional walking foot is available through your Brother dealer ...

Page 36: ...twice release the automatic reverse reinforcement stitch key a Automatic reverse reinforcement stitch key X The needle stop position changes to the raised position Memo Perform the same operation to change the needle stop position to the lowered position When the needle stops in the raised position The needle stops in the raised position when sewing ends Memo After sewing is finished the fabric ca...

Page 37: ...is turned on a Turn off the sewing machine b While pressing needle mode selection key turn on the sewing machine When the machine beeps twice release the needle mode selection key a Needle mode selection key single twin X The initial needle position is changed to the center needle position Memo The specified initial needle position is maintained even after the machine is turned off Perform the sam...

Page 38: ...ft X With the flat bed attachment removed free arm sewing is possible b Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm and then sew from the top c When you are finished with free arm sewing install the flat bed attachment back in its original position Sewing large pieces of fabric The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier a Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide tabl...

Page 39: ...able is available through your Brother dealer d Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to adjust their height so the wide table will be level with the sewing machine bed e When you are finished using the wide table remove it While slightly lifting up the wide table pull it off to the left f Install the flat bed attachment back in its original position Do not move the sewing machine while the wid...

Page 40: ...ot causing the needle to bend or break When sewing make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins otherwise the needle may break or bend Before replacing the presser foot be sure to turn off the sewing machine otherwise injuries may occur if the start stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing CAUTION 1 Turn on the machine Turn on the sewing machine For details refer...

Page 41: ...e LCD a Presser foot type For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 31 Memo The presser foot to be used is indicated by the letter J A etc that appears above the stitch number d If necessary adjust the stitch width and stitch length For details on making adjustments refer to the next section Adjusting the stitch length and width Adjusting the stitch length and width Example To select st...

Page 42: ...he fabric are aligned correctly a Turn on the sewing machine The straight stitch left needle position is automatically selected b Press needle position button once or twice to raise the needle a Needle position button c Place the fabric under the presser foot If the seam allowance is positioned on the right side sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way After...

Page 43: ... sewing machine The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the sewing speed controller or the foot controller Note Important When the foot controller is plugged in start stop button cannot be used to start sewing Using the operation buttons Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button start stop button a Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to select the desire...

Page 44: ...arted and stopped using the foot controller a Turn off the sewing machine When connecting the foot controller be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started b Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the side of the sewing machine a Foot controller jack c Turn on the sewing machine d Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or ri...

Page 45: ...ng is stopped For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped refer to Changing the needle stop position page 35 Securing the stitching When sewing with the straight stitch for example at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread a Lower the needle into the fabric at the...

Page 46: ...d down reverse stitches are sewn g After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn release reverse reinforcement stitch button X The machine stops sewing h Press start stop button or press down on the foot controller At this time if start stop button is held down the machine sews at a slow speed X The machine starts sewing in the normal sewing direction i After sewing to the end of the stitching stop...

Page 47: ...t stitches and zigzag stitches reverse stitches not reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn a Select a stitch For details refer to Selecting a stitch page 40 b Press automatic reverse reinforcement stitch key a Automatic reverse reinforcement stitch key X appears in the LCD This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforceme...

Page 48: ...esult or if you are sewing with special thread or on special fabric use the thread tension dial to increase or decrease the tension of the upper thread Correct thread tension The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of t...

Page 49: ...r project Changing the sewing direction a When stitching reaches a corner stop the sewing machine Leave the needle lowered in the fabric If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing press needle position button b Raise the presser foot lever and then turn the fabric Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot c Lower the presser foot lever and continue sewing a Presser foot lever Sewi...

Page 50: ...oot a Black button c The presser foot remains level enabling the fabric to be fed After the seam is sewn the presser foot will return to its normal operation Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly If this occurs place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric When you have fi...

Page 51: ... With the needle raised press needle position button twice a Needle position button d Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull out the end of the bobbin thread a Upper thread b Bobbin thread e Pull out about 10 to 15 cm 4 5 inches of the bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine a Upper thread b Bobbin thread f Reattach the bobbin cover Insert the tab in the lower l...

Page 52: ...J Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics attaching elastic darning etc 5 0 3 16 1 5 7 0 1 16 1 4 1 0 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Overcasting stitch G Overcasting on thin or medium weight fabrics 3 5 1 8 2 5 5 0 3 32 3 16 2 0 1 16 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No No Reinforcement G Overcasting on thick fabrics 5 0 3 16 2 5 5 0 3 32 3 16 2 5 3 32 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No No Reinforcement ...

Page 53: ...lect or c Attach overcasting foot G For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 31 d Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric against the guide of the presser foot and then lower the presser foot lever a Presser foot guide e Slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot f Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide...

Page 54: ...sted with the straight stitch left needle position and the triple stretch stitch by adjusting the stitch width Press the side of the stitch width key for a left needle position or press the side for a right needle position a Stitch width b Stitch width key c Moves the needle position to the left d Moves the needle position to the right Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Application Stitch Width mm i...

Page 55: ...basting fold back the fabric along the basting and then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Desired edge of hem d 5 mm 3 16 inch e Edge of hem b Turn on the machine c With the pattern selection dial select or d Attach blind hem foot R For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 31 Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Application Stitc...

Page 56: ... needle is positioned too far to the left Press the side of the stitch width key to adjust the needle position so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is positioned too far to the right Press the side of the stitch width key to adjust the needle position so that the needle slightly ca...

Page 57: ...izontal button holes on thin and medium weight fabrics 5 0 3 16 3 0 5 0 1 8 3 16 0 5 1 32 0 2 1 0 1 64 1 16 No No Automatic Reinforcement A Secured button holes for fabrics that have backings 5 0 3 16 3 0 5 0 1 8 3 16 0 5 1 32 0 2 1 0 1 64 1 16 No No Automatic Reinforcement A Buttonholes for stretch or knit fab rics 6 0 15 64 3 0 6 0 1 8 15 64 1 0 1 16 0 5 2 0 1 32 1 16 No No Automatic Reinforceme...

Page 58: ...mes of parts of buttonhole foot A which is used for sewing buttonholes are indicated below Before replacing the presser foot be sure to turn off the sewing machine otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing a a a CAUTION A a b c e d a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks on buttonhole foot e 5 mm 3 16 inch ...

Page 59: ...m 9 16 inch and a thickness of 10 mm 3 8 inch the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm 1 inch on the scale a 10 mm 3 8 inch b 15 mm 9 16 inch X The size of the buttonhole is set c Turn on the machine d With the pattern selection dial select a stitch e Attach buttonhole foot A For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 31 f Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser f...

Page 60: ...to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole a Seam ripper For keyhole buttonholes use the enclosed eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole a Eyelet punch When using the eyelet punch place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric Changing the stitch length Pr...

Page 61: ...grooves and then loosely tie it b Turn on the sewing machine c Select stitch or d Attach buttonhole foot A For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 31 e Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the gimp thread f Lower the presser foot lever and the buttonhole lever and then start sewing g When sewing is finished gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack h Use a handsewing need...

Page 62: ...itch width so that it is the same as the distance between the holes in the button g Place the button into button fitting foot M a Button X The button is held in place When attaching four hole buttons first sew the two holes closest to you Then slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine and then sew them in the same way h Turn the handwheel tow...

Page 63: ...s a Drop feed lever as seen from the rear of the machine Memo The feed dog position switch is normally set to the right side as seen from the rear of machine The feed dogs come up when you start sewing again Attaching a shank to a button To sew the button with a shank attach the button with space between it and the fabric and then wind the thread by hand This attaches the button securely a Place t...

Page 64: ...aching the zipper opening For details on basic stitching refer to Basic Stitching page 53 c Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the fabric a Basting stitching b Reverse stitching c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening d Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric a Wrong side of fabric Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm...

Page 65: ...ting stitching Inserting a side zipper Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric Use this type of zipper for side openings and back openings a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side as shown in the illustration When using zipper foot I be sure to use a center needle position and slowly turn the handwheel tow...

Page 66: ...8 inch f Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of the fabric having the extra 3 mm 1 8 inch and then baste or pin the zipper in place a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching g With the pattern selection dial select stitch h Attach the presser foot holder to the right side of the pin of zipper foot I If the stitching will be sewn on the right side opposite side of this example attach the presser ...

Page 67: ...de of the pin in step h change it to the left side of the pin a Left side of the pin b Needle drop point For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 31 m Topstitch along the zipper Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot a Right side of fabric b End of zipper opening c Reverse stitching d Beginning of stitching e B...

Page 68: ...f the elastic tape be used a Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric a Elastic tape b Pin b Turn on the machine Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm inch Twin Needle Walk ing Foot Reverse Reinforcement Stitching Auto Manual A...

Page 69: ...lastic tape to the fabric while stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand When sewing make sure that the needle does not touch any pins otherwise the needle may bend or break CAUTION ...

Page 70: ...0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 0 1 16 0 2 5 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement Joining stitch J Patchwork stitch ing and decorative stitching 4 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 2 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement J Patchwork stitch ing decorative stitching and sew ing overcasting on both pieces of fab rics such as with tricot 5 0 3 16 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement J Patchwork ...

Page 71: ...l select stitch or f Attach zigzag foot J For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 31 g Turn the handwheel toward you and then begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué When sewing around corners stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué raise the presser foot lever and then turn the fab...

Page 72: ...titch a 6 5 mm 1 4 inch Memo To change the width of the seam allowance the needle position adjust the stitch width Quilting Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called quilting Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide a Baste the fabric to be quilted b Attach the walking foot For details refer to Using the optional walk...

Page 73: ...g the feed dog position switch so that the fabric is not fed The optional quilting foot is needed for free motion quilting a Turn off the sewing machine b Remove the presser foot and the presser foot holder For details refer to Removing the presser foot holder page 32 c Attach the quilting foot to the presser foot holder screw The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp...

Page 74: ...dial select stitch or h Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut and then move the fabric to follow the pattern Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of stitching a Pattern Reverse stitches cannot be sewn when the feed dogs are lowered i After sewing is finished slide the feed dog position switch to its original position to raise the feed dogs The feed dogs are normally left ra...

Page 75: ...de of the stitch width key for a left needle position or press the side for a right needle position a Stitch width b Stitch width key c Moves the needle position to the left d Moves the needle position to the right Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm inch Twin Needle Walk ing Foot Reverse Reinforcement Stitching Auto Manual Auto Manual Triple stretch ...

Page 76: ...scale b Length of bar tack c 5 mm 3 16 inch b Turn on the machine c With the pattern selection dial select stitch d Attach buttonhole foot A For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 31 e Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot and then pull it under the presser foot as shown f With the opening of the pocket toward you position the fabric so that the needle drops...

Page 77: ...upper thread in your left hand and then start sewing X Once sewing is completed the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches then stops i Raise the presser foot lever cut the threads and then remove the fabric j Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position Memo If the fabric does not feed for example because it is too thick increase the stitch length For details refer to Adjusting ...

Page 78: ...3 32 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement J Patchwork stitch ing and decorative stitching 5 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 2 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Shell tuck stitch J Shell tuck stitching 4 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Satin scallop stitch N Scallop stitching 5 0 3 16 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 0 5 1 32 0 1 1 0 1 64 1 16 Yes J No Rei...

Page 79: ...e stitch width to 7 0 mm 1 4 inch For details refer to Selecting a stitch page 40 g Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned along the center of the two pieces of fabric h After sewing is finished remove the paper Scallop stitching The wave shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called scalloping It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs a T...

Page 80: ... J d Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm 3 8 inch a 1 cm 3 8 inch Do not sew reverse reinforcement stitches or cut the thread e Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers Smooth the gathers by ironing them f Select stitch or g Stitch between the straight stitches h Pull out the threads for the straight stitches Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called shell tucks Th...

Page 81: ... side faces up and then sew over the seam with the center of the presser foot aligned with the seam a Right side of fabric Heirloom stitching When sewing with the wing needle the needle holes are enlarged creating a lace like decorative stitch This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics a Insert the wing needle Use a 130 705H 10...

Page 82: ...Sew along the other edge of the frayed section so that it looks like the previous stitching Drawnwork Example 2 a Pull out several threads from two sections of the fabric separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm 3 16 inch a 4 mm 3 16 inch b Attach monogramming foot N For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 31 Select a stitch width of 6 0 mm 15 64 inch or less otherwise the needl...

Page 83: ...UTILITY STITCHES 82 c Select stitch For details refer to Selecting a stitch page 40 d Sew along the center of the unfrayed section N ...

Page 84: ...ser foot lever e Raise the presser foot lever even higher and then hook the connecting fork of the side cutter onto the needle clamp screw a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm inch Reverse Reinforcement Stitching Auto Manual Auto Manual Overcasting stitch S Basic stitching sewing gathers or pintucks etc 0 0 0 0 0 ...

Page 85: ...the rear of the sewing machine i Make a cut of about 2 cm 3 4 inch long in the fabric at the beginning of the stitching a 2 cm 3 4 inch j Position the fabric Position the fabric so that the right side of the cut is on top of the guide plate and the left side of the cut is underneath the presser foot a Guide plate Note If the fabric is not positioned correctly the fabric will not be cut After adjus...

Page 86: ...is sewn the seam allowance will be about 5 mm 3 16 inch a 5 mm 3 16 inch Note The side cutter can cut as much as one layer of 13 oz denim After using the side cutter clean it by removing any lint or dust If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter a ...

Page 87: ...UTILITY STITCHES 86 ...

Page 88: ... Yes Reverse Center J Attaching zippers basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks etc 3 5 1 8 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 5 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J Yes Reverse Triple stretch stitch J Attaching sleeves sewing inseams sewing stretch fab rics and decorative stitching 0 0 0 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 5 4 0 1 16 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Stretch stitch J Sewing stretch fab rics and decorative stitching ...

Page 89: ... 1 8 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 6 4 0 1 16 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Shell tuck stitch J Shell tuck stitching 4 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Piecing straight stitch J Piecing straight stitching with a seam allowance of 6 5 mm 1 4 inch from the right edge of the presser foot 5 5 7 32 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 0 1 16 0 2 5 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement Hand look ...

Page 90: ... Decorative stitch J Decorative stitch ing 4 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 3 0 1 8 2 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No No Reinforcement J Decorative stitch ing 4 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement N Decorative stitch ing and elastic attaching 5 0 3 16 1 5 7 0 1 64 1 4 1 0 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement N Lace sewing deco rative hemming heirloom stitching etc 3 5 1 8 1 5 ...

Page 91: ...ic Reinforcement Bar tack stitch A Reinforcing open ings and areas where the seam easily comes loose 2 0 1 16 1 0 3 0 1 16 1 8 0 4 1 64 0 3 1 0 1 64 1 16 No No Automatic Reinforcement Decorative stitch N For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement Satin stitches N For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 0 4 1 64 0 1 1 0 1 64 1 16 Yes J No Reinforceme...

Page 92: ... the presser foot holder and then loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the needle e Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover and then slide it toward you to remove it a Needle plate cover f Remove the bobbin case Grasp the front of the bobbin case and then pull it out a Bobbin case g Use the enclosed cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove any lint and dust from the race and its surroun...

Page 93: ...ws with the disc shaped screwdriver c Remove the tangled thread from the needle plate d Return the needle plate to its original position and then tighten the screws with the disc shaped screwdriver Note Align the two screw holes on the needle plate with the two holes on the machine e Follow steps g through i beginning on page 91 Never use a bobbin case that is scratched otherwise the upper thread ...

Page 94: ...utton disconnect the foot controller page 42 The needle breaks The needle is incorrectly installed Correctly install the needle page 29 The needle clamp screw is loose Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw page 30 The needle is bent or blunt Replace the needle with a new one page 29 The combination of fabric thread and needle is incorrect Select a thread and needle that are appropriate f...

Page 95: ... or the nearest authorized service center The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched Replace the presser foot Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center The bobbin case is scratched Replace the bobbin case Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is not used Bobbins from older models which have a d...

Page 96: ...t or blunt Replace the needle with a new one page 29 If thin fabrics are being sewn the stitch is too long or the fabric is not being fed correctly Sew with stabilizer material under the fabric page 49 The thread tension is incorrectly set Adjust the thread tension page 47 Stitches are skipped The upper thread is incorrectly installed Correct the upper threading page 20 The combination of fabric t...

Page 97: ...angled for example in the bobbin case Remove the tangled thread If the thread is tangled in the bobbin case clean the race page 91 The fabric does not feed The feed dogs are lowered Slide the feed dog position switch to page 73 The stitch is too short Lengthen the stitch length page 40 The combination of fabric thread and needle is incorrect Select a thread and needle that are appropriate for the ...

Page 98: ...inuing the opera tion The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the start stop button was pressed The foot controller was depressed if it is connected while the button hole lever is raised Lower the buttonhole lever before continuing the opera tion The reverse reinforcement stitch button or needle position button was pressed while the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right Move the bob...

Page 99: ...ck for the cause of the error and correct it before continuing to sew Canceling the operation beep When the sewing machine is purchased it is set to beep each time an operation panel key is pressed This setting can be changed so that the machine does not beep a Turn off the sewing machine b While holding the side of stitch width key pressed turn on the sewing machine When a beep is heard release t...

Page 100: ...itching 80 I included accessories 11 J joining 80 M main power switch 14 maintenance 91 monogramming foot 11 N needle 27 needle plate cover 91 needle position 53 needle position button 18 needle set 11 needle stop position 35 non stick foot 12 O open toe foot 12 operation beep 98 operation buttons 9 operation manual 11 operation panel 10 40 97 optional accessories 12 overcasting foot 11 52 P patch...

Page 101: ...titch settings 87 stitch width 40 straight stitch 53 stretch stitching 67 T thread guide 20 thread tension 47 thread tension dial 47 triple stretch stitching 74 twin needle 11 25 U upper thread 20 W walking foot 12 33 71 wide table 12 37 Z zigzag foot 11 49 zipper foot 11 64 zipper insertion 63 ...

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Brother Innov-is 40, Operation Manual

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