E A S Y V E E
15
Bottom taped and clamped in place.
Be sure that the bottom sheet only covers half of
the keel. Clamp well.
Weight applied to keep bottom sheet against
engine rails.
Test fit the bottom sheeting in place. It should cover
exactly half of the keel. Also, sand a gradually
increasing bevel on the inside (center) edge, so that
both sheets will meet squarely.
Make sure the front is accurately aligned with the
center of the keel and that there is some overlap at
the rear.
When satisfied with the fit, make an alignment mark
on the bottom sheeting and the keel.
Cut about 8 pieces of wide tape, and set aside.
Mix about 1/2 ounce of 30 minute epoxy.
Using a small stick or acid brush, coat the stringers
and bulkheads where the bottom sheeting will
contact. Work quickly.
Also coat half of the keel.
Brush epoxy onto the first 6 inches of the front of
the sheet, to help the glue joint here.
Align your marks and put a couple of clamps along
the keel, clamping the sheeting firmly to the keel.
Check your center marks on bulkheads 4 and 5.
Wipe all excess glue off of the keel, as it will
interfere with the other side sheeting.
If everything looks good, start wrapping the wide
tape across the bottom sheeting.
Start at the keel, and pull the tape tight as you
attach it to the side.
Use as many pieces of tape as you need, to make
sure the bottom sheeting is tight to the keel, side
stringers and sheeting.
Look for any “crown” in the sheeting as a result of
taping. If it exists, use some weights to flatten it out.
Also put weight over the engine rail, to help hold it
against the sheeting.
For very inexpensive weights, break up some
cinder blocks. You can get many different shapes
and weights, and their rough surface helps keep
them in place.
After the glue fully cures (at least 2 hours), remove
the tape and clamps. Check for any glue that may
have squeezed onto the keel. Use a sharp knife to
scrape any away.