The bottom of the shock can also be moved in or out on the suspension arm. Moving the bottom of the shocks to the inside hole in the arm
will result in more low-speed steering and less high-speed steering. Mounting the shocks in the inside hole will require limiters in the shocks
to limit the travel, and the springs should be changed to stiffer ones. Moving the bottom of the shocks to the outside hole will reduce overall
travel, increase high-speed steering, and reduce low-speed steering. This position may be good for oval tracks and high-traction surfaces.
REAR SHOCK TOWER LOCATIONS can be changed just as easily as the front. Again, the standard location is the best place to start for most
tracks. Moving the top of the shock in on the shock tower results in less side-bite (traction in corners) but makes the truck smoother in bumps.
Sometimes a stiffer spring is used in combination with the inside holes inthe tower. Moving the top of the shocks to the out will give the truck
more forward traction and side bite as well as keeping the truck from bottoming out on big jumps.
Moving the bottom of the rear shocks to the outside hole in the arm will improve stability but may not handle bumps as well. You may also
notice that the truck is faster in the turns. The downside is that the truck will not straighten out or "square up" as well. Moving the shocks to
the inside hole will increase forward traction and be more stable in bumps. At times a stiffer spring or a sway bar (LOSA4142) may be needed
when moving the shock in on the arm.
REAR RIDE HEIGHT can change the way a truck turns, the amount of traction a truck has and the way a truck goes through the bumps.
Again, it is a good idea to play with this adjustment and get a feel for it. For most conditions, the rear ride height should be set so that the arms
are level with the ground. Adjust the rear ride height in the same way as described in the front ride height section.
REAR HUB CAMBER LOCATIONS is best set according to the settings described in this manual. You should start with the inner hole
in the top of the hub (hole "A"). As you move out on the hub, it will tend to make the truck feel a bit stiffer. This results in the truck accelerating
straighter and also makes it a bit easier to line up for jumps. Running the inner hole will typically make the truck go through bumps better. The
inner hole may also give the feeling of more steering. This steering generally comes from the rear end though. What this means is that the rear
end of the truck may swing a bit more — at times even sliding more.
REAR CAMBER LINK LENGTH can be another useful adjustment. It is virtually impossible to make a blanket statement for exactly how
the length of the camber link will affect the handling under all conditions. The following is our experience with how the length of the camber link
will typically affect the handling of the XXX-NT AD2. A longer rear camber link will usually result in more rear traction. With a longer link, the
truck can start to drive more square, or point-to-point. This can make it difficult to corner at high speed. A shorter rear camber link will generally
result in more steering from the rear of the car due to increased chassis roll. This can make it easier to change directions quicker, but can cause
the rear of the truck to roll around if the link is too short. A shorter rear link will usually go through bumps better than a long link as well.
FRONT ARM LENGTH ADJUSTMENT (VLA), the XXX-NT AD2 is like having four trucks in one. With the addition of a longer rear arm
position and a shorter front arm position you can have many different setups to suit your driving and handling needs. The kit setup comes
with the long rear arm position and a standard length front arm position. The new hole on the front arm is actually the inner hole (shorter arm).
We have done many hours of testing and found that the kit setup is the best all-around setup for most tracks.
Shortening the front arm length will give you less steering, and the truck will drive much smoother. This can be good on tracks where the
front of the truck feels twitchy, such as high-bite; blue-groove tracks. One thing to keep in mind is; as you shorten the front arm, you are
actually making the camber link longer in relation to the front arm. Knowing this, you may want to shorten the front camber link when using
the short arm location. The longer front arm setting (stock setup) will have more all-around steering, which is key on tracks where front grip
is important.
REMOVING THE ENGINE can seem slightly difficult when you look at all of the fuel lines and linkages connected to the engine. This is
really a simple thing to do. The easiest procedure that we have found is the following — remember to leave the engine mounts attached to the
engine: First, drain the fuel tank and remove the fuel line from the carburator. You want to remove the line that runs to the carburetor. Remove
the screw that holds the pipe-mounting wire in place. Remove the four screws from the bottom of the chassis that hold the engine mounts in
place. Slide the engine out of the left side of the chassis while positioning the engine so that the short throttle linkage can be removed from the
throttle arm on the carburetor. To reinstall the engine, simply reverse the steps above.
WORKING ON THE CLUTCH is easier than it may seem. If you only need to work on the clutch, and don't need to remove the engine,
follow this procedure: remove the slipper adjustment nut and all of the slipper parts from the top shaft. Remove the spur gear, gear plate, and
slipper pad. Remove the clip from the clutch nut. Remove the clutch nut spacer and the outside bearing from the clutch bell. With the outside
bearing removed you should be able to rotate the clutch bell slightly so that it can slide off, past the throttle servo. When you are finished
working on the clutch, install the clutch bell without the outside bearing. Once the clutch bell is in place, install the outside bearing, followed
by the clutch nut spacer. Attach the clutch nut clip. Assemble the slipper assembly according to the manual.
The suggestions in this section are only general guidelines. There are so many variables in a racing truck that they can’t possibly be listed
in a simple tip section. Go to the track, try various combinations of setups, and get a feel for what each one does to the handling. Look for setup
updates as well as tips on our website, WWW.TEAMLOSI.COM for the latest updates and additional tuning tips.
Good luck with your new XXX-NT AD2. We’re sure you will be pleased with its superb performance.
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Summary of Contents for XXX-NT AD2
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