Stewart Golf ukulele kit, Assembly Instructions Manual

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10
With a flat sanding block, follow the outer curves of the body
to flush the edges with the sides . A curved sanding block or
a stout wooden dowel makes a good sanding block for the
inside curves at the waist .
Don’t sand the sides at this point . That comes later . Just make
the top and back edges flush with the sides .
Sand until you have a smooth edge all around the uke .
Prepare the neck
Install the side dots
The position markers on the side of the fretboard are made
from a small plastic dowel, 1/16" in diameter . The dots are
centered between the same frets that have inlaid dots on
the board .
Use a sharp point to mark holes for drilling . Make sure all the
holes are centered equally down the side of the board . You
might want to put two dots at the 12th fret to indicate the
octave; this is optional on a ukulele .
After trimming, the remaining back and top overhang should
be very small . You’ll remove this with a file and sandpaper .
Sand the top and back flush with the sides
A flat file will remove the remaining bit of overhang, followed
by sandpaper to make a smooth, flush edge .
Put masking tape on the sides to protect them from file
marks . Carefully file away the overhang until it’s small
enough that you feel ready to switch to sandpaper . You
might not need the file at all: 120-grit sandpaper may be
all you need .
Cutting tool
approaching
a curve from
this direction
invites tearout.
Tearout: accidentally breaking at the grain line
Tearout: the
wood breaks
at the grain.
Cutting from
the opposite
direction makes
tearout much
less likely.
To avoid tearout,
make your cuts
on the downward
slope of the curve,
with the grain.
Don’t cut upward
against the grain.
Watch the video:
PART 4
PREPARING THE NECK