Wiring the sockets
How you wire your input and output sockets up will very much depend on your panel design
and choice of sockets. I will only go into the details of wiring up a panel with the five 3.5mm
sockets. One variant of the Krisp1 built RM-4014 uses only three sockets, one output and two
inputs, but has also two switches to select between AC and DC inputs. This replicates the
circuit of the original 2600. However, by using four input sockets you can use the module as a
crude mixer. Both the AC and DC inputs are active at the same time and can be used to
process two signals at once.
The standard 3.5mm chassis mount socket. The metal bush means that the panel will be electrically
connected to the socket's ground lug. The ground lug is the one that sticks out from the side of the socket.
If you have used ordinary 3.5mm sockets with a metal bush (see picture above) you will see
that they have three connections. One is the earth lug or ground tag, which connects the metal
mounting bush. The second is the signal tag which will be connected to the tip of the jack plug
when it is inserted. The third tag is the normalised tag, or NC (normally closed) lug. The NC
lug is internally connected to the signal tag when a jack plug is not inserted. This connection is
automatically broken when you insert a jack. We shall not be using the NC lugs at all on this
module.
Firstly, we are going to ‘common’ the sockets’ ground lugs. This means that the sockets’
ground lugs are going to be joined together. I normally do this part of the wiring without the
PCB or pots in place on the panel.
Fit the five input signal sockets onto the panel so that the ground tag sticks down towards
where the PCB will be. Solder a length of thin solid core wire right across all the earth tags.
Trim off any excess that sticks out on either end. This wire will be eventually connected to
either panel ground pin on the SOCKETS header – pin 6 or 8.
Fit the Ring-modulator PCB against the front panel if you haven't done so already.
I used Molex KK headers and housings to connect my ring modulator together. This way I
don't have to solder my wiring to the PCB. However, you can solder directly onto the board if
you wish. The 0.1” solder pads are substantial enough to be able to solder the usual hook up
wire to.
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