7.10
The rudder horn H-25 is glued on in line with the linkage. The steel wire is simply bent and mounted
on the rudder horn, making it easy to dismantle the tailplane.
The fuselage
7.11
Fit the tail unit servos in the servo board in the fuselage. To do so, use the rubber bushings and the
brass sleeves attached to the servos.
7.12
Establish the linkages to the rudders with the steel wires, soldering sleeves and clevises.
7.13
The drive is also built in, and the engine is screwed directly onto the engine dome.
Downthrust and sidethrust are each 0 degrees.
This means that the model will have neutral flight.
7.14
Finally, the edges of the cockpit are glued together with the plastic tube (cut to length) and the cockpit
windows are stuck on. A model pilot would then give the model a finishing touch.
The landing gear
No.
Designation
Quantity Material
Dimensions
Comments/plate
TM-19
Landing gear
2
Steel
4 mm
Bent part
TM-20
Fastening straps
4
Nylon
-
Finished part
TM-21
Fixing screws
8
Metal
2.9 x 9.5 mm
Finished part
TM-22
Adjusting rings with Allen screws
4
Steel
4 mm
Finished part
TM-23
Wheels
2
Plastic
70 mm
Finished part
TM-24
Landing gear struts
1
Beech
D4 x 700 mm
Round rod
7.15
The finished, bent steel wires TM-19 are inserted into the grooves of the multi-layered hardwood slats
in the middle section of the wing and fixed using the plastic straps. The wheels TM-23 are attached
and fixed in place using the adjusting rings TM-22.
7.16
If you are flying on uneven terrain, we recommend tilting the landing gear legs forwards slightly. To do
so, you would have to drill the vertical holes into the landing gear rail with an incline.
7.17
Optionally, you can add a little extra authenticity to the landing gear by making four struts from the
round beech rods TM-24 and attaching these to the legs of the landing gear using two-component ad-
hesive and a little winding wire. Instead of the winding wire, you can also use a couple of carbon rov-
ings and soak them with superglue.
Notes for flying / settings
7.18
The wings are fixed onto the middle section using the glass fibre reinforced plastic rods TF-59. The
magnets will make a sound as they lock into place.
7.19
Weigh the Klemm to make sure that its
centre of gravity is 70 to 75 mm
from the leading edge of the
middle section. You can screw the lead beneath the engine dome.
7.20
The rudder deflections are set as follows:
Elevator:
above 9 mm
below 9 mm
Aileron:
above 12 mm
below 6 mm
Rudder:
maximum on both sides
7.21
During take-off, you will see that the model tends to swing to the left. Prepare yourself for this and
counteract it immediately. Only when the speed increases can you set the rudder to almost zero.
7.22
Once it is in the air, familiarise yourself with the flight characteristics. Stalling in particular should be
tested out at sufficient height. However, there shouldn't be any unpleasant surprises when it comes to
the surface of the fabric foil. Serious aerobatic manoeuvres are out of the question – the Klemm was
not designed for that. But a loop-the-loop or two, a nice, slow roll and a little bit of inverted flight won't
do any harm.
7.23
To land, leave yourself plenty of space – the Klemm glides very well. During landing, turn the engine
off completely, but allow the propeller to continue to turn until it comes to a halt. When travelling on the
ground, pull the elevator up completely so that the model does not tip over onto its nose.
Enjoy lots of great flights with your Klemm 25.
