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ENGLISH
Jandy
®
Pro Series TruClear
™
Chlorine Generating System
|
Installation & Operation Manual
If your Total Hardness
(TH)* level is above
400 ppm or you reside
in an area known to
have hard water,
it is recommended you
change the polarity
reversal time from
the default of 5 hours
to every 3 hours
(instructions on back).
*Three (3) Total Hardness (TH) test strips are included
Areas known to have hard water
Figure 8.
Hard Water Map (Canada)
Section 6. Maintenance
Before servicing the Jandy Pro Series chlorine
generating device please ensure you have read and
understood the Important Safety Instructions section.
6.1 Weekly
1.
Chlorine Test.
Test pool water chlorine level
with a reliable test kit. Maintain an ideal range
by adjusting the chlorine output level on the
power pack (see Section 5.4) or if necessary, by
supplementing the chlorinator with additional dry
or liquid chlorine. The recommended free chlorine
level is 1 - 3 ppm. See section 4.5 for instructions
on collecting a water sample.
NOTE
Never use glass containers in the pool area. Broken
glass becomes difficult to see under water.
2.
pH Level Test.
Test the pH level of your pool with
a test kit. If necessary, adjust to maintain a pH level
of 7.4 - 7.6 (see Section 4.3).
3.
Total Alkalinity Test.
Test pool water for total
alkalinity with a test kit. Take steps necessary to
maintain an alkalinity of 80 - 120 ppm (U.S.) or
100 - 120 ppm (Canada) (see Section 4.3).
4.
Calcium Hardness.
Test pool water for calcium
hardness level using test kit or by having a water
sample tested by a pool professional. Adjust as
necessary to maintain a calcium hardness of 175 -
400 ppm (see section 4.3).
6.2 Monthly
1.
Check the cell.
It is recommended that the cell
be inspected every month for scale and/or calcium
deposits. Light colored, crusty deposits known
as scale will form in excessively hard water or
from pool water that is out of balance. Following
the installation of the Jandy Pro Series chlorine
generating device, check the cell once a month
for signs of scale. Hold the plate bundle to a light
source so the light can be seen between the plates.
If the light is easily seen through the plates and/or
a small amount of scale is visible, the cell does not
need to be cleaned. Reinstall.
On the other hand, if the light is barely visible
through the plates or the light is totally blocked by
scale, then the cell needs to be cleaned. See Section
6.3 for instructions.
NOTE
Excessive cleaning can shorten the life of your cell.
2.
Salt Level Test.
Use salinity test strips, a TDS/
salinity meter, or another reliable method to test the
salinity of the pool water. Once the existing salinity
has been established, use Table 1 to determine the
amount of salt to add to reach the desired level.
Be conservative when adding salt as it is easier to
add more if needed than it is to dilute if there is too
much salt. If the salinity level of the pool is correct
and the salt LED does not go out, see Section 7.
Troubleshooting.
3.
Pool Water Sample.
Take water sample to local
pool store for testing.
4.
Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid).
Test pool water
stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level using a test kit
or by having a water sample tested by a pool
professional. Maintain ideal range of 30 - 50 ppm.
Follow your pool professional’s recommendations
and check all local and federal regulations to ensure
that the ideal range is suitable for your specific
conditions. For indoor pools, it is not necessary to
add chlorine stabilizer to the swimming pool water.
