55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
Select the white pair of wires at the front of the chassis.
Tuck the excess-wire into the corner and connect one
wire to each of the lugs on the thermal breaker. Solder
each.
Select the left output module, check it as before to see
that underside connections near the holes are secure,
and that the holes are visible. Place it against the left side
of the chassis with the breaker at the front, board up.
Prepare a 6” green wire. Connect one end to hole #lo.
(S). Be sure it cannot touch the transistor mounting
screw! Connect the other end to FL lug #2. (S).
Select the green and white pair from output terminals
LB and LR. Connect the green wire to hole #7. (S). Con-
nect the white wire to hole #5. (S).
Select the white pair from LF. Connect the shorter wire
to hole # 8 (S). connect the other wire to hole #6 (S).
Prepare a 5 1/2 white wire. Connect one end to hole 3.
(S). Connect the other end to FL lug #4. (S).
Select 4 sheet metal screws and fasten the module to the
chassis, making sure no wires are trapped.
Select the green and white pair from input socket LS.
Connect the green wire to the top rear hole #2. (S). Con-
nect the white wire to hole #l. (S). Solder these on the
back of the board.
Tuck the excess of the remaining white pair of wires into
the front corner, and connect one wire to each lug of the
thermal breaker. Solder each.
Select the 7 ampere slo-bid fuse (a slo-bid fuse has distinc-
tive internal construction) and install it in the single fuse
clip FC.
65 Select four 5 amp regular fuses, and install them in the
dual fuse clips FL and FR.
66 Select the two 2 amp fuses, and install them in the twist
type fuse holders on the back panel. These fuses will pro-
vide reasonable protection for most speakers. See the
Operation section of this manual for more detailed infor-
mation. The remaining 5 amp fuses are alternates for
the back panel holders for high power test purposes.
67 For lowest distortion performance and lowest noise, cor-
rect placement of some wires is important. The wires
from the output terminals and the back panel fuse
holders should be kept against the chassis. The input
socket pairs should be about an inch above the chassis,
(the left pair can be tucked under the rear chassis lip),
and should turn upwards at the bottom center of the cir-
cuit board, about 1/2" to 1” off the board, in the plane
defined by the edges of the finned heat sinks. The wires
to the dual fuse clips should be kept away from the board
and against the chassis, bringing the excess length for-
ward of the fuses. The leads to the power supply
capacitors should be kept away from the boards. The
green ground leads from the black output terminals and
the ground lug should be brought together through most
of their length.
68 Check all your soldered connections - especially those
on the fuse clip lugs, which are sometines difficult to
solder to. Clip off any excess bare wire which could short
to adjacent lugs or the chassis. Pay particular attention
to the stranded wires from the transformer and line
cord, and check the power switch connections. Now
turn the amplifier upside down and shake out any bits of
wire or solder.
69
q
Slide the cover in place, and install it with the eight sheet
metal screws.
70 Remove the backing from the serial number label, and
apply it to the bottom at the center rear. (This may have
already been done at the factory.)
IF PROBLEMS ARISE
Each circuit module, which comprises all the “active”
amplifier circuitry, has been incircuit tested to standards iden-
tical to factory built amplifiers, prior to being packed in a kit.
Thus, with careful assembly, the likelihood of a circuit fault is
near zero. If you are certain the problem lies in the power
amplifier, check the pilot lamp. If it is blinking, excessive
temperature has shut down the amplifier. After a few minutes to
cool, it will turn on automatically. If it soon shuts down again,
and the amplifier has sufficient ventilation, the malfunction is
either internal, or the result of an excessive (and very likely
inaudible) input signal. In that case, the source must be
investigated.
If the pilot lamp is not lighted, the main fuse in the single fuse
clip near the power switch is probably open. If a replacement 7
ampere Slo-Blo fuse (do not use a larger value) also blows, the
amplifier has a power supply problem, and requires profes-
sional service.
If there is a problem in only one channel of the amplifier, that
channel may be isolated by removing the power supply fuses in
the adjacent dual fuse clip, and the other channel may be used
monophonically. We do not encourage local service of this
amplifier because some components may not be available lo-
cally, and substitutions are not recommended at all. You may
return a defective module for factory service. This reduces ship-
ping weight and the likelihood of damage. To remove the
module (leave the heat sink attached to the circuit board) tag
each wire with the circuit board hole number as you unsolder it
from the board, and
insulate
each bare wire end. It is safer to
also remove the power supply fuses from that channel. The
wires to the thermal breaker must be temporarily
soldered
together,
and insulated.
Adjustments for Bias and DC Offset
These two potentiometers on each circuit board have been
set at the factory and should not normally require adjustment
for the life of the amplifier. In the event of repairs such as tran-
sistor replacement, the following is the procedure, after remov-
ing all input and output connections to the amplifier.
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