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b. Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear (3, 5, 7 or 12,
depending on the number of speeds of your hub) is for the greatest speed.
Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift.
Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to
shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” for the conditions — a gear which is hard enough for
quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — and experiment with
upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no
obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need to shift,
and shift to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you have difficulties with shifting, the problem could
be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
E. Pedals
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer while a
pedal is in the forwardmost position. This is common on small-framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping
the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns. On any bicycle, this technique
will also prevent the inside pedal from striking the ground in a turn.
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. Ask your dealer to help you
determine if the combination of frame size, crank arm length, pedal design and shoes you will use
results in pedal overlap. Whether you have overlap or not, you must keep the inside pedal up and
the outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces. These
surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing grip between the rider’s shoe and the pedal. If your
bicycle has this type of high-performance pedal, you must take extra care to avoid serious injury from the
pedals’ sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer a less aggressive pedal
design, or chose to ride with shin pads. Your dealer can show you a number of options and make suitable
recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly positioned and engaged with the pedals. The
toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe
strap, when tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and
straps give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work most effectively with cycling shoes designed for
use with toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep treaded soles or
welts which might might make it more difficult for you to remove your foot should not be used with toeclips
and straps.
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill which can only
be acquired with practice. Until it becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration
which can distract your attention and cause you to lose control and fall. Practice the use of toeclips
and straps where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. Keep the straps loose, and don’t
tighten them until your technique and confidence in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it.
Never ride in traffic with your toe straps tight.
!
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are another means to keep feet securely in the
correct position for maximum pedaling efficiency. They have a plate, called a “cleat,” on the sole of the shoe,
which clicks into a mating spring-loaded fixture on the pedal. They only engage or disengage with a very
specific motion which must be practiced until it becomes instinctive. Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats
which are compatible with the make and model pedal being used.
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Summary of Contents for - V8.0
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