Note: We do not recommend this method for instruments with brittle ornamental veneers
(ex: abalone) around the endblock.
1. Apply masking tape around the endblock area to protect the instrument.
2. Locate an X-Acto saw blade 1/16" (1.6mm) away from the body and saw off the endpin.
3. Centerpunch a guide hole in the center of the trimmed endpin.
4. Drill a 1/8" (3.2mm) pilot hole through the endblock.
5. Line up a 15/32" (11.9mm) Spade bit in the pilot hole and begin drilling. Maintain a perpendic-
ular plunge in relation to the instrument. Use steady (but not heavy) pressure, especially as
the drill exits inside the guitar.
6. To avoid damage to the instrument, let the drill come to a complete stop before removing it
from the hole.
Install the Pickup
1. Insert the pickup in the slot and then strip and tin the wire ends.
2. Unscrew the shielding cap on the jack to expose the solder terminals. Thread the pickup wire
through the shielding cap.
Gently bend back the strain relief/sleeve tab to gain better access to the Tip terminal.
3. Solder the pickup "hot" wire to the Tip terminal, which is the shortest of the three tabs.
Solder the pickup shield to the ground tab on the jack. Gently tighten the strain relief.
4. Refasten the shielding cap to the jack.
OPTION: PERMANENT TRANSDUCER MOUNTING
Although excellent results are obtained by using the adhesive pads, an increase in overall fre-
quency response and output will result when the transducer is bonded to the soundboard with a
"hard" adhesive. We suggest a gap-filling cyanoacrylate such as Loctite "Black Max™". Be aware,
however, that such a procedure is permanent and irreversible; removal may result in damage to
both the transducer and the inner surface of the soundboard.
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I n s t a l l a t i o n G u i d e
I n s t a l l a t i o n G u i d e
