9
FGi.FPi.FXi
Issue
08 03/13
6.3 Cleaning
Glass:
Despite the advanced air wash system provided, the glass will still need cleaning
from time to time depending on the fuel quality and burning rates used. Never clean
glass when the stove is hot. Always use stove glass cleaner or ceramic hob cleaner,
which is available from your stove retailer. As an alternative, use a wet cloth with some
wood ash but be very careful to use very clean ash so as not to scratch the glass.
Outer body:
The outer body simply needs to be dusted from time to time. DO NOT use
any kind of furniture polish or cleaning agent other then your stove suppliers
recommended paint or polish.
Inner firebox:
Brush the inside of the firebox clean from time to time to check the
integrity of the plates and liners etc. It is not normally necessary to re-paint inside the
firebox due to the high temperatures that mean that the paint does not have much effect
before being burnt off. Steel and vermiculite board liners are resilient firebox materials
and will give good service without major cleaning or work on the firebox. The liner
boards may require replacement fairly regularly depending upon fuels and the type of
usage experienced. Surface cracks on firebox liner boards are not detrimental to
performance unless the steel firebox is exposed to any extent. Lining boards are not
covered by warranty, as they are a wearing consumable part.
Baffle:
It is essential to check the top of the baffle for build up of soot and ash regularly
when in use and after a long period of no use. From time to time remove the baffle if
necessary to ensure that the flue way entrance is clear.
6.4 Fuels
The appliance has been tested and approved burning dry, well-seasoned logs. This is
the recommended fuel. For any other fuels please contact the manufacturer for advice.
Warning!- Petroleum coke fuels or household waste must not be burnt on this
appliance.
Should any difficulties arise over fuel quality or suitability, consult your local approved
fuel merchant.
6.5 Important Notes for Wood burning
With a full load of wood and burning at a moderate rate, the stove will typically need to
be refuelled approximately every 1 to 1.5 hours but this is entirely dependent on fuel
quality and burn rate. Wood can be stacked in the stove but care must be taken that
logs do not touch the baffle. Never stack fuel above the level of the tertiary air inlets at
the back of the stove.
Wood burns most efficiently with the primary air controls closed and the secondary (air
wash) controls open. Carefully adjusting the secondary air controls and fuel load will
then control the burn rate of the stove. Typical air wash openings of 3-6mm are common
for nominal outputs depending on fuel quality, draught from the chimney which can differ
in each installation.
Always make sure that flames are visible above the wood after
re-fuelling for cleanest burning. Open the air wash full for 3 to 5 minutes or until
the logs are blackened all over to achieve full flames above the fuel.
Wood burns best on a bed of ash and it is therefore only necessary to remove surplus
ash from the stove occasionally
. If the grate is completely clear, place a few
handfuls of ash into the slots in the grate to help the firebed build up.
Burn only dry, well-seasoned wood, which should have been cut, split and stacked -
under protection from rain - for at least 12-24 months with free air movement around the
sides of the stack to enable it to dry out. Burning wet or unseasoned wood will create tar
deposits in the stove and chimney and will not produce a satisfactory heat output.
Wood
that is not properly dry (‘dry’ is considered to be less than 20% internal moisture
