11
11
Alternative Method for Cutting Crown Moulding
Cutting crown moulding using this method does not require a bevel cut.
Minute changes in the mitre angle can be made without affecting the
bevel angle. When corners other than 90º are encountered, the saw can
be quickly and easily adjusted for them.
Use of the DW7084 crown moulding fence accessory (ll) is highly
recommended because of its degree of accuracy and convenience (fig.
5).
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CUTTING CROWN MOULDING ANGLED BETWEEN
THE FENCE AND BASE OF THE SAW FOR ALL CUTS (FIG. 24B)
1. Angle the moulding so the bottom of the moulding (the part which
goes against the wall when installed) is against the fence and the top
of the moulding is resting on the saw table.
2. The angled “flats” on the back of the moulding must rest squarely on
the fence and saw table.
INSIDE CORNER
OUTSIDE CORNER
Left
side
Mitre right at 45°
Save right side of cut
Mitre left at 45°
Save right side of cut
Right
side
Mitre left at 45°
Save left side of cut
Mitre right at 45°
Save left side of cut
Special Cuts
WARNING: Never make any cut unless the material is secured on
the table and against the fence.
ALUMINUM CUTTING (FIG. 25A, 25B)
ALWAYS USE THE APPROPRIATE SAW BLADE MADE ESPECIALLY FOR
CUTTING ALUMINUM.
Certain workpieces may require the use of a clamp or fixture to prevent
movement during the cut. Position the material so that you will be cutting
the thinnest cross section, as shown in figure 25A. Figure 25B illustrates
the wrong way to cut these extrusions.
Use a stick wax cutting lubricant when cutting aluminum. Apply the stick
wax directly to the saw blade before cutting. Never apply stick wax to a
moving blade. The wax provides proper lubrication and keeps chips from
adhering to the blade.
BOWED MATERIAL (FIG. 26A, 26B)
When cutting bowed material always position it as shown in figure
26A and never like that shown in figure 26B. Positioning the material
incorrectly will cause it to pinch the blade.
CUTTING PLASTIC PIPE OR OTHER ROUND MATERIAL
Plastic pipe can be easily cut with your saw. It should be cut just like
wood and
clamped or held firmly to the fence to keep it from rolling.
This is extremely important when making angle cuts.
CUTTING LARGE MATERIAL (FIG. 1, 27)
Occasionally you will encounter a piece of wood a little too large to fit
beneath the lower guard. If this occurs, place your right thumb on the
upper side of the guard (A) and roll the guard up just enough to clear the
workpiece, as shown in figure 27. Avoid doing this as much as possible,
but if need be, the saw will operate properly and make the bigger cut.
NEVER TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE HOLD THE GUARD OPEN WHEN
OPERATING THIS SAW.
SPECIAL SET-UP FOR WIDE CROSSCUTS (FIG. 28A, 28B)
Your saw can cut very wide (up to 409 mm [16.1"]) workpieces when
a special set-up is used. To set the saw up for these workpieces, follow
these steps:
FIG. 26A
RIGHT
FIG. 26B
WRONG
FIG. 27
FIG. 28A
A9
1. Remove both left and right sliding fences from the saw and set aside.
To remove them, unscrew the fence adjustment knobs (M) several
turns and slide each fence outward. Adjust and lock the mitre control
so that it is at 0º mitre.
2. Make a platform using a piece of 38 mm (1.5") thick particleboard
or similar flat strong 38 mm thick wood to the dimensions: 368 x
660 mm (14.5" x 26"). The platform must be flat, otherwise the
material could move during cutting and cause injury.
3. Mount the 368 x 660 mm (14.5" x 26") platform to the saw using
four 76.2 mm (3") long wood screws through the holes (A9) in the
base fence (O) (fig. 28A). Four screws must be used to properly
secure the material. When the special set-up is used, the platform
will be cut into two pieces. Ensure the screws are tightened properly,
otherwise material could loosen and cause injury. Ensure the platform
is firmly flat on the table, against the fence, and centred evenly from
left to right.
FIG. 28B
M
O
