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35
FREERIDE BIKES
ADjUSTING THE SADDLE TO THE CORRECT HEIGHT
Dirt, freeride, dual slalom and downhill bicycles etc.
require different saddle adjustments, according to
the specific use. The seating position cannot be ca-
pared to that on other bicycles; it is maximum control
and movability that counts when riding one of the
aforementioned bicycles.
When you set off for a
long cycling tour
, the saddle
should be set to a height which gives maximum pedal-
ling comfort and efficiency. When pedalling, the ball
of your big toe should be positioned above the centre
of the pedal spindle. With your feet in this position
you should not be able to stretch your legs completely
straight at the lowest point, otherwise your pedalling
will become awkward.
You can check the height of your saddle in the follow-
ing, simple way. This is best done wearing flat-soled
shoes. Sit on the saddle and put one of your heels on
the pedal at its lowest point. In this position your leg
should be fully stretched and your hips should remain
horizontal.
For
freeriding, downhill racing
etc. the saddle is set to
a very low height with a rearward tilt. Ask your trainer,
a competent person in your club or contact our ser-
vice hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582 for the correct
seating position.
For detailed instructions on how to adjust the saddle,
read chapter
“Adjusting the Canyon bike to the rider”
.
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A lower saddle is advisable in particular for
steep downhill riding by mountain bike.
Prolonged riding with a low saddle may cause
knee trouble.
Strive
For freeriding etc. the saddle is normally adjusted with a rearward tilt
After only one season these types of
mountain bike may be so worn that es-
sential and/or supporting parts will already need
replacing. Have bicycles of this type thoroughly
checked at least every 3 to 4 months.
Height adjustable seat post
i
In the case of height adjustable seat posts,
such as the Reverb from RockShox, the
height is adjusted by pressing a button on the
handlebars. Read the operating instructions on
the enclosed CD.
AFTER AN ACCIDENT
AFTER AN ACCIDENT
1. Check whether the wheels are still firmly fixed in
the drop-outs and whether the rims are still cen-
tred with respect to the frame or fork. Spin the
wheels to make sure they run true. If the wheel vis-
ibly wobbles, it must be centred. For more informa-
tion, read chapters
“The brake system“
and
“The
wheels“
.
2. Check whether the handlebars and stem are nei-
ther bent nor ruptured and whether they are level
and upright. Check whether the stem is firmly fixed
in the fork by trying to twist the handlebars relative
to the front wheel. Also, briefly lean on the brake
levers to make sure the handlebars are firmly fixed
in the stem. For more information, see chapters
“Adapting the Canyon bike to the rider“
and
“The
headset“
.
3. See whether the chain still runs on the chainring
and sprockets. If your bike fell over to the chain
side, check that the gears still function properly.
Ask somebody to lift the bike by the saddle, then
gently switch through all the gears. Pay particular
attention when switching to the small gears, mak-
ing sure the rear derailleur does not get too close
to the spokes as the chain climbs onto the larger
sprockets. If the derailleur or the drop-outs have
been bent, this can cause the rear derailleur to col-
lide with the spokes –
risk of accident!
Check the reliable attachment of the wheels
Try twisting the handlebars relative to the front wheel
Look from the rear at the rear gear cluster and check whether the
pulleys are perfectly aligned with the teeth of the adequate sprocket
i
Please note the particulars given in
chapter
“Special characteristics of car-
bon”
, as well.
