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The Pro Z preamp is sold as an upgrade for existing basses, our instructions 

assume that the mounting holes are already in the instrument. Installation is 

simple if you have experience installing music electronics. Typical hand tools 

for soldering wire connections and assembly are required. If you are uncertain 

about the installation we recommend you have a trained guitar technician 
install it for you. You can also send an email to 

[email protected]

 

if you have any questions. 
Each product is 

configured to order; these 

general instructions apply 

to most configurations, 

some portions of it may 

not be applicable to your 

particular installation.  

Additional information is 

available in the Frequently 

asked Questions (FAQ) 

on our web site.
We offer a 10 day return 

period from receipt of 

the preamp, see our 

Satisfaction Guarantee for 

details. We recommend 

you follow our instructions 

and conduct a “test play” 

to check out the product’s 

performance before completing the installation and before making any 

modifications to the product or your instrument.

Knobs are not provided with the preamp.

 Our potentiometers have 

solid shafts so the knobs need a set screw to secure them. The single 

potentiometer has a 6mm shaft. Dual potentiometers have an 8mm outer shaft 

and 6mm inner shaft. These shaft sizes are common to many preamps. Some 

knob resellers do not know the shaft size their knobs fit; knobs which will fit a 

normal Bart, Aguilar, EMG or East stacked pot should fit.

audio engineering

Every instrument is different; we have made the module small and easy 

to install but if you find you need to make modifications to your instrument 
in order to install this product please take extra care. Audere Audio is 

not

 

responsible for any damage or modifications you make to your instrument 
as part of the product installation of the product. See our Limited Warranty 
for restrictions on liability.

Step 1) Connecting to the Pickups

The preamp wires used for the pickups are: Green strip on White base color 

(Green/White) for the pickup common, Black/White (Bridge or single pickup 

hot) and Blue/White (Neck pickup hot).

The preamp inputs come from the module, unless your configuration includes 

an A/P switch in which case the inputs come through the A/P switch.
A.  Disconnect your pickup wires from the original preamp. 
B.  All wire connections must be insulated to prevent shorting and to keep 

the leads isolated from the output jack and from the cavity ground.

 

Prior to connecting the wires, slide the heat shrink tubes over each 

pickup wire and the module Green/

White wire. These tubes will be 

reduced over the solder joints later. 

C.  For a single pickup system: connect 

the hot lead from the pickup to the 

Black/White wire. Connect the pickup 

“common” lead to the Green/White 

wire.

D.  For a dual pickup system: connect the 

bridge pickup hot lead to the Black/White wire. Connect the neck pickup 

hot lead to the Blue/White wire. Connect both of the pickups “common” 

leads together and then solder them to the module’s Green/White wire.

E.  For all systems: Slide the heat shrink over the solder connections and 

shrink with a heat gun or hair dryer (do not over heat and protect other 

components from the heat). You may prefer to postpone shrinking the 

heat shrink until after the play test - just be sure that the exposed wires 

do not touch anything that will cause an electrical short.

If your pickups have an additional shielding wire; solder it to the output jack 

ground (center tab) or cavity ground.
Verify that your pickups are not connected on the negative (common) side 

to the cavity shielding. If the pickups are connected to the cavity remove this 

connection; the Green/White 

wire must not be grounded. 

Connecting the Green/White 

wire to the cavity ground will 

not damage the preamp but it 

will increase power pull and the 

preamp will sound bad with a lot 

of distortion.

PLEASE READ 

THESE INSTRUCTIONS 

PRIOR  TO  INSTALLING  YOUR              

PRO Z PREAMP

Step 2) Connect the Preamp to do a Play Test

To test play the preamp prior to a full 

installation: tape the preamp to the 

back of the instrument with low tack 

tape to hold it in place during testing 

(verify first that the tape will not hurt 

the finish when it is removed).

A.  Connect a battery to the new 

preamp and insert the guitar 

cable into the new preamp jack. 

B.  Verify the battery LED lights up 

on insertion. 

C.  You can now do an initial play 

test. 

Note: it will pick up extra noise while it is out of the shielded cavity. Since this 

is just a test, we will not adjust the Low Z gain, so the Low Z-Mode may be 

louder or softer than the other modes. This will be adjusted later. Also note that 

touching the temporarily ungrounded pots or switches can cause hum.
It is important to prevent any electrical connections from touching and shorting 

to each other.

If after playing the preamp in this test mode you are satisfied with the sound, 

proceed with the installation.

Step 3) Remove the old preamp and Prepare the Cavity

A.  Remove screws holding the existing output jack plate and remove the 

jack nut. Set the plate and hardware aside for use with the new output 

jack.

B.  Pull jack back into the cavity.
C.  Remove the knobs from the pots and then remove the nuts and washers 

from pots and switches.

D.  Pull out the old preamp circuit.
E.  Determine the location for the module, battery, LED and any additional 

holes, if required, for pots and switches. 

F.  Most basses have the cavity shielded with either conductive paint or a 

foil shield; however some low cost basses do not have a shielded cavity. 

This is required for quiet operation in any electric bass and for providing 

a ground connection for the pots and switches. With shielding you don’t 

need to get 100% coverage, but you want to get the best coverage that is 

reasonably achieved. 

G.  It is important that the pots and switches are grounded to the cavity and 

that the cavity is grounded to the output jack. If the pots and switches are 

not grounded they will buzz when you touch them. A strip of copper foil 

with an adhesive backing is provided for grounding the controls. Apply the 

foil to the wood where the controls exit the cavity,  and solder the Grey/

White wire from the Jack to the foil.  The pots are pulled against the foil 

when the hardware is installed completing the ground circuit.

Pro Z Revision 1.0 Printed in the U.S.A.

 © 2013 by Audere Engineering LLC All rights reserved. 

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