If the adjuster pin bears on the Clutch Push Rod, this prevents the Clutch Springs
from exerting pressure on the Plates.
It is impossible to increase the Spring pressure by tightening
the Clutch Spring Pins, as these are screwed right home, and any undue pressure an these will break
away the heads of the pins.
In addition to the Clutch Push Rod adjustment, a clutch cable adjuster is provided.
This can be adjusted with the fingers, but make a point of tightening the locknut, otherwise
the adjuster may vibrate and gradually work hack, eventually causing the Clutch to slip
through absence of play in the Clutch Lever. Although the front chain cover contains an
oil bath, this does not necessarily mean that the
clutch
runs in oil, if the correct oil level is
adhered to, centrifugal force will keep the oil out of the clutch, although a certain amount
may find its way into the clutch, this in no way impairs its efficiency. Actually the Clutch
is intended to run dry. The method of dismantling the chain cover and Clutch for examination
or Clutch Plate removal is as follows: Remove the footrest arm and Brake Pedal, next the
Pinch Pin at the rear of the aluminium retaining band and the rubber seal strip. The outside
portion of the chain cover can then be drawn away leaving the Clutch, Chain, Shock Absorber
etc., visible. The Clutch Plates can now be withdrawn after removing the six spring bolts,
springs, thimbles and thrust pin. To remove the Clutch Sprocket unscrew the centre nut
from the shaft and the Sprocket will then come away with the Clutch centre. To dismantle
the Sprocket from the centre, unscrew the six nuts securing these two parts,
but be aery careful
when taking them apart because there is a Thrust race of Ball and Roller Bearings between the two and
these will drop out if not carefully handled.
When re-assembling the Clutch, the Ball and Roller
bearings should be placed alternately round the centre, and to keep them in position smear
them with vaseline or grease after replacing the nuts securing the Sprocket to the centre,
punch and slightly spread the end of the pins in the nuts to make sure that they cannot become
loose. The sequence of the Clutch Plate replacement can be seen clearly from the illus-
tration. If the distance Pieces between the two sides of the Chain Cover have been removed
see that these are replaced before re-fitting the outside portion of the Chain. Cover. When
replacing the Rubber Seal strip, smear Shellac Jointing on the inside of this. The ends of
this strip should coincide with the ends of the aluminium retaining strap. Replace the Brake
Pedal before the footrest arm.
When a chain is joined up with a spring clip, it is most important that the clip is
correctly fitted over the cover plate.
The open end should always face in the opposite direction to
which the chain travels.
Fit this so that the plate and spring clip are on the inside of the chain,
i.e.,
next the spokes.
Replacing Chain.
—When replacing a chain it will facilitate the fitting of the spring
link if the ends of the chain are encircling an equal portion of the sprocket. This also applies
to removing the spring link.
Back Chain.
—Slack off the nuts on each side of back hub spindle and move the
wheel backwards by means of the adjusting screws in fork-ends. Care must be taken to
adjust each side equally or the wheel will be out of alignment (see adjustment gauge. Illus-
tration 19). Screw the spindle nuts up tightly again after the chain is properly adjusted.
It may be found that moving the wheel back has caused the brake to be " on. " This is
easily rectified by means of the brake adjustment
—13—
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