PSI, use a bicycle pump to get the air pressure within that range and reconnect the tank to the
system.
● If the tank feels full and no water is coming from the faucet, the tank bladder could be broken.
You can verify this by measuring the tank’s PSI and it being zero.
Little water from the RO faucet
Tank is heavy and appears full of water, but the stream turns very weak after a few seconds.
If there is no change in the supply water pressure, the problem is very likely from the tank. It could be
due to low tank pressure or broken bladder. Perform the following steps first.
1. Shut off main water supply
2. Get a bucket under the tank and remove tank by disconnecting the ball valve.
3. Dump the water from the tank by turning it upside down (through the top stem). You may add
air from the front valve to help emptying the water.
4. Use a gauge at the front air valve to check tank pressure. It should be within 710 PSI. If too
low, you can use a bicycle pump to add more pressure to the tank.
5. Reconnect tank to the system and turn on the water supply.
Continuous Drain
All RO systems require drain water. The drain water should run only when the system is producing
water. The ratio of drain water to RO water is about 2:13:1 for our residential RO systems (SideFlow
systems have a lower 1:1 ratio). The drain should stop after the tank is full. Allow 3 hours to ensure the
tank has been filled completely. If the drain is still running, try the following to determine the cause:
●
What is your incoming water pressure? If it is below 45 PSI, this is likely the cause of the
continous drain. When there is not enough water pressure to force the water through the RO
membrane, most or all of the water will go to the drain. Because the water is unable to get
through the RO membrane, the tank never fills up, and never triggers the system to cut off the
water supply.
●
Close the tank valve and wait 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, remove the black drain line from
the drain pipe to see if it has stopped draining continously. If it has stopped, we will know the
continous drain has something to do with the tank, and you will want to follow the directions
below to check the air pressure in the tank. If it has not stopped, we will know it has something
to do with the system, likely the automatic shutoff valve (ASOV) or check valve (the check
valve is the elbow fitting at the pure water outlet of the membrane housing).
●
If the continous drain stopped after you closed the tank valve, you will want to measure the air
pressure in the tank. Shut off the main water supply to the system, and open the faucet to drain
the tank. After the faucet stops dripping, close the tank valve, remove the connected yellow
tube, and take the tank outside or somewhere that can get wet. Remove the tank valve from the
top of the tank, and turn it upside down to drain out any remaining water. Then, use a standard
tire pressure gauge to check the air pressure at the nozzle on the bottom half of the tank. The air
nozzle is under a screw off blue cap. If the pressure is not between 710 PSI, use a bicycle
pump to get the air pressure within that range and reconnect the tank to the system.
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